so, IT’S all soldered but the speakers not working, the pads are hanging from the thread. like so, any way to fix it?
left pad
right pad
Not really. That speaker is done.
They are tricky to solder.
To not melt the plastic, you need a really hot iron (like as high as it will go), have some wet solder on the iron, and blob it onto the pad, sandwiching the wire. Stay there for JUST a moment and as soon as the solder on the pad wets up and the wire is floating in molten solder , then get off immediately.
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I think i have a spare speaker.
I need a desoldering gun, the wick and the desolder sucker aren’t removing the solder from the hole. plus the wire I did “install” was causing that short on the underside. I may just stop until I can get a better soldering iron.
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Seriously consider the Hakko888. Hands down IMHO it’s the best iron I’ve ever used. There’s kits out there available and depending on the vendor you can get a good deal. Just be sure to check and make sure it’s not a fake. The first one I got from a vendor was a fake and they replaced it immediately. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvOJL8aAUO8
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Make sure you put a healthy amount of flux on the wick, crank the iron up, and rub back and forth over the whole, keeping the iron tip and the wick moving together so the same spot has the heat applied and heats up the wick.
If you have poor quality solder, it’s just going to make everything difficult.
It shouldn’t be milky / cloudy / dull at all. Good solder nice and hot should be mirror-like, molten, Terminator looking solder.
I think I linked you to good Kester solder on the AUS Amazon site.
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that’s what I’m using, the solder you suggested. to be fair I have not tried the wick just as yet. just the sucker with that solder, I need to find the wick.
well now all the wires are off, I need to desolder and resolder them onto the board. I may need solder mount rather then solder the wire into the through hole.
DAMN!,
ONE OF THe components is exposed and I can see the copper underneath is that broken. @NoSloppy is this fixable?
oof. That’s your L1 coil. It would be better if it weren’t damaged, but it might still work?
Got any liquid electrical tape goop stuff? Drop a drop on it.
Fixable, yes. Replace it with one from another board (dead, donor board for parts) or, new they’re 27 cents:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/81-DFE252012P-1R0MP2
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would hot glue work on this?
As an insulator? Sure. But before you make a mess, does it even work?
profezzorn said that I need to test the 5v pad and/or play sound, except nothing is connected to it. p.s. i need to desolder the pads (probably how I damaged it).
You don’t need anything connected to the board. Just connect USB, stick an SD card in (with a font or track that the loaded config uses), open serial monitor, send on, and multimeter the 5 volt pad when sound should be playing.
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Cool cool I’ll test that in the morning.
volts are 0.00 not registering any volts on the multimeter I set it to 20v settings. the 5 volt is next to the batt+ right?
Yes. Down the left edge, it goes
Btn1
LED1
BATT(-)
GND
BATT(+)
5V
Probes on 5V and GND, blade on and running and you have zero?
You have it set to measure DC, right?
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No gnd I’ll test again. it’s registering 2.61
just in case you missed it, the gnd & 5v registered 2.61 volts on the multimeter. I’m guessing that’s not good.
So I tested my saber and yes that is broken my working saber registered 5.61 volts. So yeah I am thinking I’ll need to replace the board.
whats the name of the paste for the smd components? is it called solder paste?