Not sure how it could blow the board if the RCP was properly wired. Plugging in the charger should disconnect that and make a connection with the battery direct.
here is a picture of the wiring :
what could also be is that the board got damaged by the too hot battery? In the casing they are very close together. But you can see that the board at least has burn marks, I am not sure if this means it is fried oder not though.
Your bigger issue is not having a SD card holder.
It looks like the RCP isn’t wired correctly since there should be five wires coming off the breakout board, two for the switch, and three for the RCP. I only see four?
But yes, some of those components look fried.
Haha yeha the sd card holder just fell off … can’t say I am happy with what crimson dawn shipped here. Anyway there are 4 cables 2 for charging + – and 2 for K+ and L+. It is a one button system if this makes sense?
Yes the question is are they replacable and what parts are they? (I have soldered smaller stuff like charging ports before)
Yes, you have two wires per unlit switch.
Your board is shot regardless. The SD holder is necessary to function.
yes mate but I do not worry to mouch about the sd card holder, this seems like a rather easy fix. I have it here, I can solder it back
In general, if the PCB is fine, all the components on the board can be replaced.
The more pads the components have, the harder it is to replace though.
In you case, two components are obviously damaged, and one is obviously missing: Q7, U60 and D62. However, there may be more components that are broken, just less obviously so.
You can use the partmap in this thread to identify which component is which:
That thread also has a link to the BOM, which specifies what components to use.
Note that some components can be hard to find. In some cases you can replace them with other components, but that can be tricky, depending on how much you know about electronics.
Once you have the components, you will need a hot-air soldering station to do the actual replacing of components. Then you need to test if the board works and figure out if any more components needs to be replaced.
I do get asked from time to time if there is somewhere you can send a board to get it repaired. Unfortunately, so far nobody has taken up doing that on a regular basis, and it would take up too much of my time if I did it myself.
Great thank you, I will then start by try buying the q7, u60 and d62 and try replacing them. I understand that I have a rather high chance of failure but it is worth a try and learning experience.
If all else fails what would be the cheapest way for me to get a new profie ? It feels really bad to have a broken saber here 
Haha ok looks like my whole repairing plan is bound to fail directly, first part i looked up ( DMP2075UFDB-7) is OOS everywhere 
I think maybe try DMP2065UFB-7 instead.
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Thank you but it looks like NCP177AMX330TCG and PMEG2005ELD,315 are also out of stock 
The Proffieboard V2 design is getting a bit long in the tooth, which means that in addition to the chip shortage, some components just has to be outright replaced because they don’t make them anymore. Not sure if that is the case for these two components or not though.
And the v3 is not ready yet or ? If it is could I just replace my 2.2 with it?
Correct, it is not ready yet.
It’s been suggested that in the event of D61 dying, that D63 could be used to replace it with, because 5Vpad in to the 3.3v reg is not really a thing, so D63 is expendable?
Without D63, the FETs may overheat when the battery is low.
The 3.3v regulator always causes a voltage drop, so if the input voltage is less than 3.7 volts, the 3.3v net will start to sag. Since the battery can go as low as 2.6 volts under load, the 3.3v rail can go all the way down to 2.2 volts. Since the CPU actually runs on 1.8v internally, it can keep running, but when this happens, the FETs are in trouble, because the gate voltage isn’t high enough to turn them on all the way. What happens in this case is that the FETs will have higher resistance than they are supposed to have and they may heat up and die, depending on how much power is going through them.
WITH D63, the input voltage to the regulator will be ~5 volts, which means that it can produce 3.3v output even if the battery is low.
Now, some boards have different FETs on them with a gate-source-threshold of 1 volt. Those boards would probably be fine without D63. Although the amp, the SD card or the motion chip might crap out if the voltage goes too low, but at least there wouldn’t be any permanent damage.
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Perfect, thank you.
I saw that too BC, didnt seem wise.
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