First time build with Proffie V3.9 and neopixel quantum

Hi all. Im a member of the 501st as an ANH Vader. I had my original saber that was built by a member back in 2016. it overheated and melted the board/wires etc. I have decided to built a more updated saber myself.
Here is what I have so far.
1 of: NPXL V3 Hilt side PCB connector - Long Pins
1 of: 1" NPXL V3 Hilt Side Adapter
1 of: MHSv1 NPXL Hilt Side Adapter
1 of: 1" Quantum Show Blade Builders Bundle
1 of: 1" Proffie v3.9 Pixel Core

I am 3D printing an adapter since I am retrofitting this into what was once a Black Series saber . been doing my online reading for circuit diagrams and will be starting the build soon.
will have a Kill switch and momentary switch

Anything I may be missing?

3.7v battery and PTFE wires?

With a Quantum blade, be sure to include enough power–so you don’t melt anything.
I over-power my builds for power-hungry blades, so you may not need to go as big as I do… but…
I use 2x20awg from the battery + connectors to the hilt-side NPXL connector
2x20awg wire from battery - connector to the proffieboard
2x20awg wire from LED234 to the hilt-side NPXL connecotr
2x20awg wire from blade-side connector NEG to the quantum PCB-
2x20awg wire from blade-side connector POS to the quantum PCB+

2x20awg should give you up to 22amps.
Sometimes I use 1x18awg (16amps).

Most people use 2x22awg (14amps–probably enough?) or 1x20awg (11amps–I don’t think that’s enough). Many mass-produced chassis/installs use 1x24awg (I’ve taken some apart and measured).

The NPXL manual from ShtokCustomWorx is a great resource for wiring gauges. There are links to the manual on saberbay and thesaberarmory.

Thanks for all the info. I have a 21700 3.7v battery and was gonna go 20-22 on the wire.
Additional question. With the core i am using the profile is deep inside the hilt. Any thoughts on how to run a microUsb to USBC female to a place where i can plug in a charging cable? There is potentially enough room near the speaker.
I would just like to minimize having to remove the whole core every time i want to charge. I would need to add a ton more wire that would need to be tucked up inside the hilt… unless you guys dont see any issues with doing that?
Thoughts?

Maybe get some of this wire to simplify?

You might want to check this thread.


I couldn’t sleep so i drew a quick sketch of what i think the wiring should be. Two switches are momentary one for blade and one for adapter leds.
I think i am going to add a kill switch as well so i will have to revise this drawing but wanted to see if i am on the right path.

If you are using dual 22AWG from the proffie to the PCB, you need to use dual 22AWG from the Battery - to the board. And thus, the switches GRD solder them to GND.

I often run wire from the proffieboard to a USB-C in the pommel that doubles for programming and charging. The v3.9 has onboard USB charging, but it is slow. A charging module would make it faster–but the big point for me is to be able to program the board without removing the chassis, so I have not yet installed one with a charging module. The v3.9 has pads on the board so you can wire direct.

Here is one example I posted on FB, linked here to save server space. There is a kill-switch and a USB, as well as a crystal, in front of a 27mm speaker–which is a big speaker and it is loud, even with the volume set at 1500 (my wife complains it’s too loud).

If you search FB, you can find a post from Dmitry with a wiring diagram for a Revan hilt that uses a USB-C for programming and charging with a charging module.

If you are adding an USB-C port, you can always solder a second +/- wires to the port, and rout it to a TP4056 module. The new small ones (like the this one) can be put almost anywhere and you get a full 1A charging speed. Which is double of V3.9 500mA.

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Thank you all for the input. I have some parts on order and should be able to post on progress soon.