Fett263's "Exar-Kun" Dual Blade Staff, Single Proffieboard Saber

Build threads
1

Starting a new build. I picked up a Korbanth “Corruption” Exar-Kun hilt and will be installing it with a single Proffieboard to both test and utilize OS7’s new “Secondary” Blade capabilities (seen here: ProffieOS7.x "Secondary Blade Effects for Staff/Dual Blade Saber" pre-alpha discussion)

I wanted to give a shout out to Dan at Korbanth, he created a modified chassis to assist in the project, as the normal set up would be for 2 boards. He worked on modifying the existing chassis design so the wires can pass the speakers to allow for one board to control both ends.

I’m just waiting on the last parts to come in and I’ll be slowly assembling and documenting here.

The plan going in will be to have two batteries and two speakers running on a single Proffieboard set up with the OS7 secondary and conditional effects to allow individual control of the two blades from the solo board.

This saber has a single middle section and two ends that screw in from the side.

I will be using a 10-pole connector on one side (right in pic) to connect the neopixel connector, battery, button and switch.

Since the 10-pole connector is indexed and the two end chassis are also “fixed” for the button plungers, the current plan is to just hardwire the left chassis and center with enough slack to allow the center chassis to spin when the right side is connected.

For ease of access I will be putting the board in the left chassis and the center chassis will just house the speakers and 10-pole connection. This way I can unscrew the ends to access the two batteries or board and would rarely need to get to the center chassis.

One thing I haven’t decided yet is whether to wire the buttons as dual POWER or POWER and AUX. The placement of the buttons is fine if you have two boards, but if you’re using one board and holding the hilt with one hand you can’t really access both buttons. So the initial plan is to run this as a 1 button saber with both buttons wired as POWER so it doesn’t matter which side is pointing up. Of course, those of you who know me, also know I don’t much like 1 button set ups, so I may change course as I start working but that’s the initial plan.

I’ll continue to update this thread as I work on it, so check back for updates.

6 Likes
2

I like the work mat. Got a link for it?

1 Like
3

They have a few sizes in their Etsy store, this was the one I got. They have a few color options as well.

4

The mats are really sweet. About to pick up a second one.

@Fett263 I’m down to see this build-out for sure, you know I liked the dual control demo.

1 Like
5

Great, now I had to go buy that hilt. Thanks lol

2 Likes
6

Nice! I’m holding off on saber expenses for a bit so post your build also.

7

Some progress. I’m starting with the right chassis which will connect to the others via the 10 pole connector.

Added a small brass rod to act as the index for the connector:

Wired up the connector:

And FINALLY got the wires routed after having to come back at it several times. Definitely a tight fit through the opening under the battery holder. Note to self, route the wires first next time, probably save some headaches.

I will need to wire the button and feed the wires separately and then splice to the connector wires as the tiny path for the button wires is too far inside to get at even with tiny tweezers.

Will try to get some time later in the week to finish up this chassis.

3 Likes
8

Is the brass rod intended to be a conductor or just something to act as a peg for fitment?

9

Just a peg for alignment.

10

Looking forward to hopefully getting eyes on the dual blade code as I have this same build on the to-do pile, and would rather do it “right” with the newer functions and features in lieu of the workarounds I use currently.

11

Yeah, hoping to get back to it this week, been tied up with other stuff.

12

I’m still working on this, to be open and honest this chassis is a very tight fit and I’ve had to take breaks and come back at it a bunch of times due to the really small components, super tight feed openings and the subsequent frustration trying to get these parts fed and fit. I would steal an hour or two thinking I’d get a chunk done only to be fed up and have to leave it on the bench because I simply couldn’t get the wires fed through.

But after 3 separate tries I have the mini LED strip and button on this side in place but it took WAY too many failures and way too long to do so really hoping the next time I sit down with it I can get a lot more done.

These tiny strips are definitely not intended for people with big hands and fingers.

And even using my thinnest gauge wires it was impossible to feed all 3 through the opening in the chassis, I final had to pull out the Exacto knife and carve away material, I’d keep getting 2 wires fed through and the 3rd would simply not fit, but it’s finally in place.

The button wasn’t any easier. Trying to feed the wires was a true test of patience (or lack thereof), but it’s finally in place.

Hopefully that’s the end of the challenges and the next time I sit down I can actually get this side finished up. I’m definitely going just carve up the opening on the other side before even attempting for my own sanity.

4 Likes
13

30 gauge or even some magnet wire is the solution I think.

14

Yeah, I thought it was 30 gauge but might have been 28. But thinner may have been easier although the routing is still super tight, even my thinnest tweezers weren’t able to fit so it was more “luck” when the wires would finally emerge.

15

Don’t know if you ever tried this, but if need be, I like to fish it through by just soldering them to another small wire fed from the destination side and just yank it through

16

Yeah, the issue on the button in particular is the passthrough is actually inside the chamber under the battery holder inside the collar so there’s no way to get to it from inside so you had to pass the wire from outside and hope it would poke out enough to grab but it would get hung up and kink. It’s just a super tight chassis overall and the location of the button on the saber in relation to the connection of the hilt parts was probably not well thought out. Sometimes I find some sabers are made more for aesthetic than install and I feel like this hilt is one of those, definitely the most “trying” install I’ve had thus far, kinda sucks the drive out of you to get it done when you keep hitting obstacles.

1 Like
17

@NoSloppy Add rubbing alcohol as a lubricant to that trick. Dries up fast and allows the wires slide rather than hang up.

1 Like
18

Hey I recognize that hilt :wink:

Look forward to seeing your build

19

The insulation on those wires is pretty thick though.
30- or 28-gauge PTFE wire is MUCH thinner.

20

True, was going with what I have on hand. If anyone else tries one of these installs probably easier to get much thinner wire.