What if we combined the proffieboard and the pogo pin PCB into one board?
Ultimate simplicity or stupid idea?
Size-wise it might be tricky, but it may be possible to fit the Proffieboard M2 components on a pogo pin PCB.
Then the proffieboard would be up by the emitter, and the traditional chassis has pommel access for battery/SD card?
yes?
(Not sure I understand the question.)
Where would soundfonts be stored?
Could you really fit a load of Proffie functionality into a blade pcb? If so, thatās amazing! 
However since lots of hilts tend to enclose the emitter end, wouldnāt access for programming be tricky?
How about a ProffieLite, with reduced functions, no SD card, on board RAM for a limited range of fonts, and data access via a special blade plug. KR used to do magnetic rings around the outside of the blade and emitter PCBs, but they never really caught on I donāt think. However you could use that fourth ring as the last connection for USB data with a special blade plug, thus keeping compatability with normal blades. Obviously you would need some kind of coding cleverness so that the central data pin could be blade data with a blade fitted, but one side of USB data for coding. But Im guessing thatās all possible.
I donāt know how much regular Proffie functionality could fit into such a small space, but it would free up lots of space at the other end for a nice, big battery.
Heās not talking about a proffieboard fitting into a PCB, heās talking about a proffieboard that has a built-in PCB on the opposite end of the micro USB plug.
On the board, in a sd-card-on-a-chip, same as the M2 board.
I donāt know.
I was thinking that Iād just put a usb connector between the pogo pins. 
Isnāt that what the M2 is?
Nope. Iām considering putting all the components on the pogo pin PCB.
Probably one thing I would have to do is to have the pogo pins be surface-mounted rather than going through the pcb. That would free up a lot of space on the back of the PCB. The pogo pins would need a lot of support, which means either a 3d-printed thing to hold them in place, or possibly another PCB with actual holes.
I still donāt know if there is really enough space or not, and itās also not clear surface-mounting the pogo pins would be strong enough.
Also, Iām not sure if there would be enough space available to have pixels on the PCB. Although, there are some really small pixels available nowadays.
What about a sandwiched board that sits under a pogo PCB?
Well, if I surface-mount the pogo pins and use another PCB with holes in it for support, then that is exactly what I would end up with.
Iām not sure how much room there is for a sandwich in existing hilts though.
Considering you wonāt have to worry about a long soundboardā¦ loads?
Doesnāt help for thin-neck sabers though.
But maybe thatās not the target for something like this.
You could always have it extend via wires to the emitter?
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IMO It seems like this would have wide-range appeal and utility by making a board that could fit in the diameter of a hilt even without pogo pins or anything like that on it, then you wouldnāt need to sandwich battery and board or things like that, and it would open up room for larger battery and maybe other things, or simply make tight installs a lot easier.
The Proffieboard M2 is short enough to fit lengthwise in thicker sabers, like graflexesā¦
Yeah, was kinda thinking that when I typed that out, āif the M2 was able to do it inside a Graflex, doesnāt seem that far fetched to do it for more normal ID sabers if it expands outwards to fill the circular shapeā
Would there be issues with vibration and shock from being so close to the blade?
I still āfloatā my boards in a neat spiral of silcone wires and they can take a beating.
But if you could squeeze a Proffie onto the hilt side pcb, there could be so much battery on the rest of the hilt! Also you could have a lot of control over the placement and angle of the board even without a chassis.
EDIT: my application would be a slick pair of nunchaku. You only get 14ā total length in each stick, max.
More vibration from the blade and less from the speaker should make clash detection work better.
with all the different style hilts accent lighting and chassis not to mention different size blade PCBās I think itās a bad idea