Hi all, ive noticed a difference with the Battery + to blade wiring on the diagram for the v3 boards compared to the proffie v2 when using a kill switch,
v3
v2
is the v3 diagram correct that you can run the board and blade pcb Battery + through the kill switch on a v3 proffie? the v2 diagram in the configuration tool has the pcb + bypassing the kill switch.
thanks.
You can wire it either way on either board, and indeed there are some Goth chassis with removable battery sections that have to be done as per the first photo.
The only thing to bear in mind is that, as you rightly say, the first system sees the full power of the blade pixels running through the switch. My own preference is to avoid this if possible and to have the blade positive unswitched with the switch only working on the relatively low power drawn by the Proffieboard itself.
But I have to confess, I’m not obsessive about it, and I’ve done installs with the switch switching the full blade positive and even, on occasion where space is really tight, I’ve wired it so the switch is across the full battery negative, which again means it carries the full power. And I must say I’ve never had an issue.
I’ve found that saber building is all about reconciling conflicting requirements. But as long as you buy good quality parts from somewhere like Saber Armoury, you’ll have a fair bit of flexibility in how you choose to wire everything up.
Cool thanks for that. I suspected it was a case of it ok but not ideal.
The JSJ/saberbay chassis for the JSJ/korbanth Ventress curved hilts have that need with the removable battery, switch and speaker pod connecting through a shtok speaker/battery pcb to the rest of the internals so if I was to use the kill switch it forces battery + through the switch.
I’ve never run full power through the switch for 3
reasons…
I was told not to by others with a greater understanding of wiring and electronics than myself (which is almost everyone lol)
I don’t believe any of them are technically rated for that type of amperage
I’ve only built a dozen or so sabers as of now, and I’ve never ran into a design when I felt I had to do it. Personal builds only, I’m by no means a sabersmith.
Just my 2 cents
Lots of people do put the full power though a switch though, so even though the switches aren’t rated for it, it has been proven to work.
Not doing it lets you use smaller switches though, which is nice.
“I’ve wired it so the switch is across the full battery negative, which again means it carries the full power”
Do you mean putting the kill switch between the battery negative and the Proffieboard? What would be a reason for doing it that way? Space limitations?
Yeh I did a hilt where the kill switch was right next to the battery neg terminal at the end of the chassis, and doing it any other way would have meant running a positive wire up the hilt, then back down again, along with the battery neg itself, plus the speaker wires, which in turn would have made it very fiddly getting another chassis panel to sit cleanly in place without being forced upwards by the cram of wire underneath. Running neg through the switch meant everything was much tidier and there was only one wire instead of three running beneath that panel which made wire management much easier and tidier.
I should add also I did ask around a bit to get some second opinions on what I was planning, but the consensus was that it should be fine, as indeed it was. 
Wow, that’s really interesting. Thank you so much. I can actually think of a few of the sabers that I’ve done that something like that really would have simplified my rats nest of wires lol.
Learned something new. Love this place.
