Hello all, I’ve installed two sabers with my own chassis, they work but I’m hoping to improve things. I have an old K4 saber that was amongst the first I bought and want to tackle it next.
I’d like to use the transistor buttons to trigger actions and I’d like to make the chassis fully removable without any connections to undo. My thoughts are to either use a plunger switch to press a tactile button on the saber or use a three pin spring contact I have.
The plunger solution seems the best, are there any off the shelf components that can be used or do I need make my own from a ball-point pen springs and other misc parts?
The spring contacts would work but I’d have to leave room for the chassis to be inserted and not damage them and the interior is already tight.
First I would need to know the manufacturer and how it is made. I have just designed a custom chassis for a 89Sabers K4v2. But it came with the plungers. I did hade to use a rotary connector for the neck, and since I added an OLED to the control box I also used a 3-pin slide contact. But It would seem your hilt has different internals.
I’m not 100% certain who the manufacturer is, I bought it about six years ago from the custom saber shop and it was listed as a “Korbanth K4”. From searching around I think it may have been made by Parks. I assume this an earlier design than yours given “v2”, it did not come with a chassis.
Under the clamp there is space for a small PCB to fit with two tactile switches and included plastic buttons and washers. But I’d like to do as you show with two switches on the chassis. I’ll need to drill out the body under the buttons so a plunger can pass through, there are openings around the body under the clamp but not under where the buttons are located.
I have some ideas on how to build my own plunger, but if there are any you can just buy I might as well do that. But I’ve spent a while searching and came up with nothing.
I’ve designed mine for other sabers. Luckily for my K4v2 already has plungers. If you post some pictures I can make some suggestions, or even design something for 3d printing. For these tight tolerance applications ABS-like resine 3D printing is ideal.
Regarding procuring the springs, I’m frm Argentina, so I can’t help much. But assume McMaster-Carr is the site to get them.
It has not worked as well for me. Tend to have too small diameter, so it requires a very thin plunger head. Besides making them fragile, it might pierce the switch if pressed too hard.
I’ve bought springs 6mm long, by 6.5mm OD with 0.5mm wire that worked great for my resine printed 12mm plungers. The work of heating, forming and lapping the tips of the ballpen springs make it too cumbersome for my taste. But I still have like 15 sabers to install.
I would suggest that you check McMaster-Carr spring section.
I would recommend these ones: McMaster-Carr
Thanks, I’ll take a few photos after work today and post them.
I can print ABS though I typically don’t because of outgassing. When I do I just open the window and close my study door.
I also came across this video on making small springs, while I can probably access the lathe at work, a power drill would be easier. This might be worth trying just to see how they turn out. Making Tiny Springs
The drawings of your chassis are very helpful, it’s almost exactly what I have in my head to do. These don’t have to be perfect, they are just for myself, as long as they work.
If the small springs I have don’t work, I can always find enough other items to make shipping from McMaster-Carr worth while.
After you post your pictures I can send you my drawing. I designed them in SolidWorks, so I’m not sure you can edit them. But whatever dimension or feature you need. Just tell me.
I bought an exterior shed and put it on the balcony. There I installed the resin printer, the curator and store all the toxic liquids. I did had to water proof it a bit and add a thermostat with a heating panel to keep it from going below 20C.
As I was thinking more today, I wonder if this spring contact I already have would be easier.
I could mount it over the top or bottom opening with the contacts aligned perpendicular to the axis of the saber. For the chassis I could have a flat section along the length that would clear the contacts when inserted and then rotate the chassis to make contact with the corresponding flat PCB. I could also add a grub screw and a ‘L’ slot to lock the chassis and make sure it’s positioned correctly.
This might be easier than designing my own plunger contacts. I might need to enlarge the opening by 1mm or so in order for the contacts to sit lower into the chassis.
I think the spring loaded contacts is good. As long as you have enough space. It is tricky to print the chassis. If you leave any hole in the pad of the contacts, they might overstretch and the pad is destroyed… if you can even disassemble the hilt. Also, that version of the internals have awfully little space there.
