I’m having a similar issue to this. I checked all the voltages but I’m not sure what the voltage from the DATA1/ID pad to LED1/LED2 is supposed to be.
To check the data stream output, you would set the meter to AC voltage and probe the data pad or pogo pin, and ground.
Small variations should show when the blade should be on.
Also, you should probably start your own thread instead of tacking onto the bottom of this one
NoSloppy is right, this should be it’s own topic rather than tagging it on to someone elses thread. Your issue may look the same, but the root cause might be different, and mixing them up is unhelpful to everybody.
I moved your question and the reply to a new thread.
First of all, don’t measure between DATA1 to LED1. If LED1 is not working properly, then the measurements will be messed up, and you still won’t know what’s wrong. As NoSloppy said, you should measure between DATA1 and GND instead. In AC mode, you should see a voltage somewhere around ~1 volt when data is flowing and ~0 volt when data is not. Don’t worry if the values are off a bit, as long as you can see a clear difference between data and no data.
To check if LED1/2 is working properly, I recommend reading the page I wrote about that very topic:
Sorry about that. Thanks for moving it.
I’ll test as you said and go through that page, then report back.
I am a fool.
I used a connector to connect the emitter to board and accidentally soldered one side in the wrong order.
Thank you so much for all of your help.
Do you mean a JST-style connector?
Yes. I’m trying to make a modular lightsaber chassis.
Have you made sure the connector is rated for the current needed? Most aren’t and it can cause issues, not least melting plastic!