I have built two sabers using the Saber Shield V1 and V2, and I made some major changes in V3.
Here is a picture of V1, V2, and V3 next to each other:
Changes from V2:
- Removed charging system - seemed like a waste of space on the board with Proffieboard V3 coming out.
- Power/Auxiliary switches removed from the board - these were limiting the placement in the hilt and were rarely used.
- No manual haptic disconnect - the switch was expensive and took up a lot of room on the board.
- Haptic motor mounted on the board - there are still breakout pads for an external motor wiring. The mosfet can handle up to 4A, so it could be used to switch an LED.
- Mosfet based haptic driver - replaces the DRV haptic chip. Now the PWM duty cycle and frequency will not matter.
- The board now has much better heat dissipation.
- Added mounting slots - sized for a 1-64 button head screw.
Momentary-based kill switch. The battery can be electrically disconnected from the saber electronics with the push of a momentary button. A high-power FET with extremely low Rds (1.5-2mOhm) allows the user to disconnect the saber electronics from the battery, while handling currents up to 40A. The current consumption of the disconnect system in off mode is only 23uA, which gives a shelf life of about 6 years with a 2 A-hr battery.
Haptic Audio Feedback. The board can take a PWM audio signal and drive a vibration motor to match the sound pattern.
- Crystal Focus - set accent LED #2-5-6-7-8 to function “@” for audio PWM signal.
- Proffieboard - Speaker + pad has a PWM audio signal.
- Golden Harvest - TBD
- Useful breakouts of board negative, battery negative/positive, and motor connections.
- Supply Voltage: 2.2V to 5V
- Dimensions: 0.5” x 1.225” x .063” (12.7mm x 31.12mm x 1.6mm)
BILL OF MATERIAL:
|Device #||Value / Type||Package||Part #||Qty|
|R1, R4, R5, R8||2k||0402||CR0402-FX-2001GLF||4|
|R2, R6, R7||100k||0402||CRCW0402100KFKEDC||3|
Following is a quick overview of the assembly process, starting with the “framework” assembly. I had some scraps of leftover black acrylic that happened to be the right height:
Next, I attached the stencil using some cellophane tape. Nothing fancy.
Here is the completed board:
If anyone is interested in testing one of these out I have about 3 boards worth of spare parts I’d be willing to solder up and send out. If you want to make one yourself, let me know…if there is enough interest I will post the Gerber files and schematic.