no, alas. I may try with a fine tip solder.
Dude. It says āAU $10.00āā¦?
EU OR UK plug, I need a AU plug.
Pretty sure if you can install lightsabers that you can hack off one plug and wire a different one on!
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itās not the plug itās that we use 240 v where they are rated for 230v the plug isnāt the issue.
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Ah. Didnāt realize the voltage difference. Sounds dangerous down under lol.
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even our electricity is EXTRA!
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Arenāt most things that are rated for 230 fine on 240? just how in the US a lot of our stuff (and actually even depending on the outlet you measure) is rated for ~110-120?
EDIT: This showed up as new for meā¦ didnāt realize I necroād itā¦ mb.
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thatās cool, yes, but high powered things from the US will short a fuse (I did that with my brotherās US rated iphone).
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Ah, I see.
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Once you get it re-attached, Iām told that carefully hot-gluing around three edges of the connector makes it more secure. Be sure to have a cable plugged in (and the battery out of the core) to the USB connector when hot gluing, else you could clog it up.
Also, I use a 90-degree cable that makes inserting less stressful on the connector.
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A lot of vendors nowadays use USB connectors with very tiny little āearsā for holding the USB connector in place. I recommend buying a connector that has bigger ears, with a little hole in the middle. When soldered correctly (not cold soldering!), these bigger āearsā will hold the USB connector in place quite securely.
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As an aside, Iāve seen some micro-B connectors that have legs which go through the PCB (but donāt extend past the other side), and those have actually been the nicest micro-B connectors Iāve ever interacted with. They feel super solid all around, theyāre all shiny and prettyā¦ I need to find an actual part number for themā¦
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I have seen those, and they would be nice.
I do worry that they would interfere with the SD card reader though, which is why I havenāt used them.
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I bought replacement usb for mine, I just need the hot air rework station, I got the low temp alloy so yeah.
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I like to file down and round off the spring loaded teeth on the male end that make it difficult to pull out of the connector. Unless you plan on swinging it around like a madman (which would likely rip it off regardless) and think itās going to fall out, filing them down works well to keep the stress low when removing. Just be sure to seriously blow out any filings that might get into the contacts.
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Hey profezzorn, My linux laptop died so Iām not trying to use the st-link v2 on a windows laptop. do I have to do anything differently with the setup?
The short answer is that I donāt know.
In theory the same tools might work, but accessing USB devices is pretty different on windows compared to unix, so I donāt know if they do work or not. ST-micro should have tools that do this for windows, but Iām not sure what tools those are or how to use them.
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I did find the stm st link utility and the stm32cube programmer but I get this error
09:15:09 : Can not connect to target!
Please select "Connect Under Reset" mode from Target->Settings menu and try again.
09:15:11 : Unknown target connected
thereās three options but none of them actually work. the connection mode has 3 options Normal, Hot plug and connect under reset.
I was looking at the youtube videos but all the drivers are already installed and the Utility task has it. I may need to see if my raspberry pi os has the chops to do it.
YAY I found my REALLY OLD dell latitude E6510 (released July 2010) and it has manjaro, I got the wifi to work. (wrong encryption method was used). I should be able to use the openocd.