RFID Integration with Savi's Workshop Saber?

Hello there!

I’m new to this particular saber forum, as well as Proffie boards in general. I am not, however, completely new to building sabers. On to my question.

I am upgrading a Savi’s Workshop lightsaber to be a modern neopixel lightsaber, and I am wanting to keep the RFID funtionality of the saber with the original crystals. I have acquired a RFID reader board (2PCS RFID 125kHz MINI Embedded ID card reader module UART or Wg26 Interface | eBay) which I have wired to the RX port of the soundboard and attached the original saber’s RFID reader antenna to. It seems that no matter what I do, it will not detect the crystal. I have based my altered code off of the example listed here: Something like Tangible font selection for proffie? - #9 by profezzorn

I guess my question is twofold:

  1. How would I know if the soundboard is getting any data from the RFID reader?
  2. Is there any way to see the raw data that the RFID reader is receiving so that I can put a crystal in while hooked up to the debugger, note down the hexadecimal value of the crystal, and assign that crystal a profile through the saber config file?

Thanks for reading!

DedSec

RFID codes that pass the CRC check should show up in the serial monitor.
You can get the raw output by using the command monitor serial.

I assume you also gave the RFID reader power? (hook it up to BATT+ or 3.3v, not the 5v pad)

Have you tried plugging in a LED to pad 4 on the reader? It should blink when something is scanned.

I haven’t tried it with the antenna from the savi, so there could be an incompatibility there.

I think I figured it out. I got it working.

I believe the problem was that I did not scrape off the coating from the antenna wire where I soldered it to the board. It works perfectly now with the original Savi’s Workshop coil. Thank you!

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Hey, curious about how you went about this upgrade. I’m thinking about something similar and was hoping that @DedSecAffiliate could share some more detail on what he did for the install, chassis, etc.

Thanks!

I made a post on Imgur with some pictures of the build process here: For Art Day: A custom lightsaber upgrade - Album on Imgur

The chassis conversion was actually pretty simple. I replaced the lower half of the chassis with one that holds the soundboard, RFID board, speaker, and a small momentary switch. The blade connector practically dropped in with a simple adapter I 3D printed to fit a neopixel connector into the original chassis slot for the blade connector. The most complicated part was mounting the soundboard and RFID reader in a way that fits well. I’m still not 100% satisfied with my chassis design on that, but it’s otherwise done.

If you have any more specific questions, feel free to ask. I do plan on making my design open source at some point, but I want it to feel a bit more finished before I do that.

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I have a pile of questions.

  1. what are you doing for activation? Did you use a Hall effect sensor or reed switch so you could retain the magnet switch mechanism?

  2. is the entire lower half of your chassis printed? How does it hold up strength-wise?

  3. Are you willing to share your STLs? Do you have an adapter STL for the pixel blade so it can still use the twist-lock mechanism in the Savi chassis/hilt?

  4. How are you managing power to the proffieboard? Do you have a kill switch hidden somewhere or are you disassembling and removing the battery?

My (admittedly very optimistic goal) is to build a Proffie-powered Savi’s chassis that functions as close to the original as possible. ie: no font selection, no special features for color change outside of the crystal insertion/RFID scan. Simple activation switch, no blaster block or lockup outside of the clash detection features currently available.

I greatly appreciate any info you can share. Thanks!

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  1. For activation, I’m using a small momentary switch connected to a spring-loaded arm that interfaces with the original switch plates. Rather than worry about magnets and all that, the arm that holds the magnet on the switch plate simply presses on a momentary switch when the switch is pulled down. It’s compatible with all Savi’s Workshop switch plates.

  2. Yes, the entire lower half of the chassis is 3D printed except for the threads, which I cut off of the original chassis and epoxied onto the printed chassis. Strength-wise, that is almost entirely irrelevant, as once the outer hilt pieces are installed, those are what take the impacts from dueling.

  3. Yes, I am willing to share my STLs, but not yet, as they still need fine-tuning to fit everything without added fitting work done after printing. I do, infact, have an adapter STL for the twist locking blade mechanism to work with neopixel blades. That STL and the blade connector STL are done, and I can release them at any point. The only part holding up the release of files is the lower chassis.

  4. Power to the Proffie board is managed via a removable battery. There is no kill key or kill switch. One could be added, though, with some modifications to the chassis design.

Your goal is is very achievable. The hardest part will be coding it to block the features that Proffies have like normal font selection and blaster blocks. Good luck!