Red light always on when "off"

Hi, total newbie here, looking for hopefully a short-term fix for a specific issue.

Just had a saber installed, there is clearly something up:

  1. LED on the board itself is flashing whenever I remove the kill switch, even when “off” and flashes faster when “on”.
  2. despite confirming I have full batteries, whenever in “off” position, the blade shows a dull red–as if the battery was low or something.

I can turn it on after this and operate it as normal for a time, and then will stop working if I use the kill key a few times.

I have talked with the installer and he is going to fix it for free, it is likely there is an issue with the recharge port wiring.

NOW HERE IS MY QUESTION:
Is there a way I can modify the config file to temporarily remove the red light when “off”?

Frankly, I want to use the saber as a prop for a video with my wife, and it needs done this week–I don’t have time to return it to the installer, etc. etc.
The ONLY thing I need to change is to make it so the blade isn’t red before I hit the button (really ruins the surprise).

Any way I can edit the config file to fix this?

Thanks in advance for your help of if this isn’t possible.

This is normal.

Full information about the status LED here:

Maybe.
Some questions and suggestions:

  1. If you just need it for a video, can you test it before and then leave the kill key out until the video is done? (Assuming it generally stays working when you don’t use the kill key.)
  2. I’m a little confused about what exactly is going on, but it sounds like it’s showing red when the kill key is not inserted, but the blade is not ignited, is that correct?
  3. What fixes the problem? Does igniting and retracting fix it? Does putting in the kill key and removing it fix it? Charging the battery? Disconnecting the blade and putting it back in again?
  4. Please post your config file, maybe this is somehow related to your blade style? (If so, maybe we can fix the blade style.)
  5. I recommend recording a video of the problem. Sometimes it’s obvious to us here what the problem is once we see it. (Upload to google photos or youtube, then post link here.)

Sure thing, thanks for your reply. I am attaching the config file as well as a video of the issue, hopefully it is clear.

I can totally leave the kill key out and have it do what I need it to, then put the kill key back in–no problem, this is more the bigger issue of why I need to rewire I think.

You have it right, its red when the kill key is out, its ready, but isn’t ignited. then, I ignite it and it turns the proper color, etc. Then when I unignite it again, it turns red again.

Let me know if there is a problem opening either.

JeremyRGB.h (35.3 KB)

At least on the video, it doesn’t seem like “dim” red to me, just “normal” red but not lit all the way.
Is it the same for all your presets ? And what preset are you on in the video ?

Yes, it’s pretty bright you are right. And it seems to not matter which Preset I use. I think I am using Windu here, it is the first on my preset list on the config, and its definitely his font.

Is your saber baselit or do you have LEDs in your blade ?

Edit: base lit or Neopixels ?

It is baselit

Hmm, well at least your BladeConfig blades[] section seems correct then.

Have you gone through all your presets, specially the last 3, and does it happens on all of them ? I suspect there could be something “wrong” in the blade styles but I can’t “read” blade styles, except the last 3 that are very simple.

It kind of looks like red is just on all the time. (When powered.)
If you switch to the second preset, which is supposed to be blue, is it blue? (Or is it purple? if so red is still on…)

If red is indeed on all the time, there are two potential reasons for that:

  1. a short somewhere connecting LED1 to GND. (They are right next to each other on the board, so maybe there?)
  2. a broken FET

Testing:
If it’s a short, you can test it by using a multimeter and measure between LED1 and GND/BATT-. If it beeps, it’s a short…

Broken FETs is a ittle harder. Usually it’s easier to just move the wire from LED1 to LED4, update the configuration accordingly and see if it works better.

Now since you had someone else install it, soldering might not be your cup of tea. However, there is a no-soldering workaround that might work for you: cut the red wire. (The wire is probably not red, I just mean the wire between the red led and LED1 on the board.) add a little electrical tape to avoid shorts and the saber will mostly work, but without any red whatsoever. Blue and green will still work. Then after recording the video, send the saber to get fixed. (Make sure your installer is ok with this plan before doing it.)

I can take a look, I have never used those presets…they are 25 presets in lol.

The only way I know to change them is to do the right twist motion 25 times. Is there a better way?

The other presets are the correct colors. The blue is VERY blue and the green VERY green, I can even peek carefully with safety glasses on and see that the red LED is not on for these.

So its not actually a short or “always on” red.

I guess I assumed it was a low battery indicator but it doesn’t seem like it.

Confirmed that ALL presets do in fact still have red when “off”

I have also noticed that

A) the red is NOT full brightness at all.

B) the blue LED is also very faintly on. I am not sure if this is new or not.

…also I want it pink for the video :frowning:

I’m barreling towards “it needs a rewire” but open to suggestions.

Depends on what ProffieOS version you have but on OS8:

/*
NOTE:
  Click = do short click (so Double Click is two short clicks in quick succession)
  Long Click = hold button for 1 second and release
  Hold = hold button down
  Click and Hold = hold on Xth click (so Double Click and Hold would be click twice and hold on second)
  Click + Long Click = do X clicks then do long click (so Double Click + Long Click would be click twice then do a long click)
  
Next Preset = Long Click PWR (parallel or up)
 NEW Control! Previous Preset = Long Click PWR (pointing down)
*/

You can read all the buttons commands if you open the file ../prop/saber_fett236_buttons.h from your version of ProffieOS in a text editor and read through the top part in the section called “1 Button Controls (based on SA22C prop)”

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If you comment out this line:

and re-upload, does it work better?

Ok SUPER newbie question here:

Where do I find these lines? They aren’t in my config file.

Kwrap! That is an “out of my league” problem.

Congrats, so I guess “it’s a baby girl” ? (you’re not the first)

No they are not, they are in ../blades/simple_blade.h in your ProffieOS folder.
Only use a basic text editor like Notepad (do not use Wordpad or Microsoft Word because they will mess-up some characters when you save), go to line 209 and change
" if (!on_) Power(false);" to “// if (!on_) Power(false);”, click save.

Edit: going to bed now, but I’ll be back tomorrow if you need more help with “in my league” questions. Best of luck.

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Ding Ding Ding! Exactly the reason.

As for the simple_blade.h file: I am familiar with text editing, so no worries there but:

I have this file in my Proffie OS folder I downloaded. But this isn’t actually on the SD card? Is this on the board itself? This is the newbie part for me, and the downside to having it installed.

I had wired installed a super basic light-up without a board on my own, and frankly soldering the board was above my skills, So I had this installed and now I am a little more lost than if I had done it myself.

Last one before bed.

You need to download & extract ProffieOS on your PC, copy your config in the folder config, …

Sorry this is going to be too long to explain it all, please follow these steps:

I’ll answer more when I wake-up unless somebody else already did.

In short:

  • download and install Arduino
  • follow the steps to install the Arduino ProffieBoard plugin
  • download and extract your preferred version of ProffieOS (I recommend OS7.15) on your PC (or Mac), not on your SD-Card
  • rename your folder ProffieOS_7.15 to ProffieOS
  • copy your config from your SD-Card to the folder /config in your ProffieOS folder
  • click on ProffieOS.ino, it will open in Arduino
  • don’t forget to change the line discussed above
  • where it says in Arduino: // #define CONFIG_FILE "config/YOUR_CONFIG_FILE_NAME_HERE.h" change it to #define CONFIG_FILE "config/JeremyRGB.h"
  • click “upload”

That’s all I can do till I get some sleep.

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As someone who has blown a MOSFET that is what this seems like to me.