When you say “off” do you mean that the saber is powered, but the blade is not ignited?
or
Do you mean that there is no power to the board?
In may saber, not Power ro the board.
I mean that the saber is powered with the battery on it, but the blade is not ignited, but… I don’t want to say that I fixed it, but it seems to be that the number of LEDs that I declared on the code was short, so I think that the information sent to the blade would desynchronize after some time of use. I counted the LEDs again on my build, even the connector ones, and put the right number. I haven’t done much testing, but it hasn’t happened again. Tonight I’ll go to do some dueling; if it doesn’t happen again, I’ll update you 
I use 107 leds and I set 107 in proffieboard balde configurator and in fet263 configurator.
Thia Is correct?
Some people use 144 led in fet263 configurator.
I never try to leve the Blade off but the board powere for 10 minute.
I will do this test.
The # of leds in my Library is only for preview, there’s no difference in the style code generated.
For Proffieboard the BladeConfig controls the # of LEDs, the style code is calculated based on the BladeConfig so you can use the same style code on any length blade.
Ok the problem Is not here.
I Will do other tests.
Is there a specific part of the blade that doesn’t change color or artifact?
I had a similar issue with a blade that I had just made. It would work fine, and then booom artifacting all over the place and colors that would linger after the lightsaber had been turned off. It turned out that the blade that I made was the issue. There as a bad pixel section that had been damaged during the creation and the blade would work fine if I pushed down on it. In the end I had to splice a new section to replace the damaged portion. works fine now.
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I haven’t noticed any areas of the blade that remain off or don’t exhibit the problem.
Even when this happens to me, the sword turns off but the blade stays on with rainbow colors, apparently on random LEDs.
I can only restore operation by turning off the power using the kill switch.
This evening, however, I noticed an error in the sound bank configuration. When I scrolled through the sound banks and reached the bottom, changing again would load the first sound bank in the list, but the font sound was related to the last sound bank, not the first.
I took the opportunity to update to version 7.15 of the software (previously I had 7.14) and corrected the sequence of the sound banks and the “Track” parameter of the last sound bank, which was pointing to an incorrect file.
I’ve been trying to replicate the rainbow blade problem for about an hour now but I can’t.
I’m having a suspicion: could the problem only occur when the battery is fully charged?
I’ll do further tests before confirming that’s the problem.
I finally replicated the problem. It seems that the longer the sword is turned off by the kill switch (without power), the loznger it stays on without causing the problem.
I also tried loading the standard configuration file from the proffieboard site and the standard sound banks, but the problem still occurs (so it shouldn’t be related to the configuration or styles, or battery).
This is the sequence of the problem:
After prolonged use, the blade begins to color randomly, seemingly without a pattern, and begins to resemble a rainbow.
I haven’t noticed a portion of the blade that isn’t causing the problem; it seems all the LEDs color randomly.
If I leave the sword on with the rainbow blade and move it, the LED colors change, seemingly randomly, but sometimes the blade returns to the correct color and then returns to the rainbow color a few moments later.
If I turn the sword off, the blade stays rainbow for a while, then turns off completely.
If I turn the sword back on, only the sounds are heard, and the blade often won’t turn on, or only the bottom LEDs light up.
If I connect the sword to the PC after it had the rainbow blade issue, the card is recognized as a device but isn’t recognized as a USB drive, and the files aren’t accessible.
I simply turn the sword off with the kill switch and turn it back on shortly afterward. The PC then starts recognizing the USB drive again, and I can access the files.
I’d like to run a few more tests before disassembling the sword again.
Programming without the USB storage option.
Disabling smooth swing
Changing the micro SD card
If this doesn’t work either, I’ll have to decide it’s a defect in the LED strip or the board.
Or do you have any other ideas?
The fact that the problem persists after the power is cut makes me think that this is a heating problem somehow. Does anything get warm/hot? If so, what?
Not that I can hear.
During the last reassembly, at each assembly step, I left the sword powered on for 10-15 minutes without experiencing any malfunctions.
This makes the problem even more difficult to understand; it looks like an excess of resources or something similar.
There Is a way to desable smooth swing dicrectry from the proffieboard software.
So i Will sure ti disabel It.
I found a way only in config.ini in a single sound font.
The three MPPs obtained from KR and the two Geonobis obtained from Saberbay all exhibited the same malfunction. Both the Proffie board v3.9 and the electronic components were products sold at each store.
Common to all these cases was the use of Pixel & Switch connectors and SCW NPXL V4.
In my case, replacing these with NPXL V3 or CCS V3 components restored normal operation.
The NPXL V4 has smaller LEDs, so it’s possible they overheated during soldering.
I don’t have any connectors between the board and the LED strip.
I connected the three pins on the board directly to the two LED strips in parallel.
In that case, changing D1 to a different data pad might be one option.
This Will be the next test.
Damn, its also same as mine. my pcb main blade turns white after a few seconds. The side blades got no problem, just my main blade in Data 1, also when turned off it stays on. I am on my wits end. hope we can solve this thing.
Where did you buy it?
From which retailer?
I’m starting to think that cards from the same manufacturer all have the same problem.
Perhaps adding a resistor to data1? In theory, it shouldn’t help, but cards with a certain defect might need it.
But we need to figure out how many ohms…
89 sabers, got it from ali express,
pcb is this one:
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006867430456.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
Thanks