Questions for a Custom Neopixel Saber

Build threads
1

Idk if this is the right thread to post this on, but I’m trying to make a custom Neopixel Lightsaber using Proffie and I have a number of questions I can’t seem to find direct answers too.

If I use 4 pixel strips in a blade what should I rate the whole system to handle, Voltage and Amperage-wise.

Is there any point to adding Voltage Regulation, so I can use most any Battery of proper size to fit in a hilt. If I should, how should I make it?

Adding Ground Loop Isolation for the Speaker. Pointless or not?

Using a Latching or Reed Switch as a Kill Switch, instead of a high amp Slide Switch.

Putting the Kill Switch on the negative side instead of the positive side

Would it be useful/worthwhile or not to build into the hilt itself an mini ST-LINK with its own dedicated external port.

Is it a good idea to use a magnets for a quick connect blade?

Is there a certain Battery Recharge board anyone would recommend over others?

Wireless Charging, good or bad idea?

There will probably be more questions I think later, so I’ll add as I think of them

(Main Board)
Proffieboard v2.2

(Added Features)
OLED Display
Bluetooth Connectivity
External On/Off & Indication
Internal Debugging
External On/Off & Indication
External Type-C Plugs

External Board Reset Button
External Kill Switch/Button
3 Primary Buttons
Main Button: Power On/Off
Aux Button 1: General Effects Tap/Menu Control Hold
Aux Button 2: Special Effects Tap/Sound Font Selection Hold

1 or 2 Speakers
Audio Amplification Circuitry
?External Volume Adjustment?

Built-in Battery Protection Circuitry
Built-in Battery Type-C Recharge Circuitry

?Hilt Ring LED Battery Level Indication?
?Voltage Regulation Circuitry?
?Anti-Feedback Circuitry?

This is most or less the end goal for the Saber

3

I don’t think I’ve ever heard of anyone ever getting ground loop feedback in a hilt. In fact, I had the opposite issue where something wired up caused noise on the switch lines leading to ghost commands.

The main thing to consider is the amperage it can handle. How you kill the power isn’t that important other than the fact you need to, or whether it’s practical. A lot of people just wire up a recharge port and use a twisting kill key, for example.

I don’t think magnets on their own will offer the secure connection you need. Usually, people use ring magnets in conjunction with set screws to add extra stability. For example, I have that set up in my Luke hero since the emitter is so shallow.

This is usually determined by the chassis requirements. I prefer 2.1mm since they are a bit chunkier, FWIW.

4

I’m going to use Type C ports on the exterior of the hilt and I’ve found a few different Recharge Circuits available, just wanted to see if anyone has used any specific one they like over others