Proffie V3.9 Wiring Check

ProffieOS
1

Hi again,

I’m doing an ROTJ Luke V1 build and wanted to make sure my wiring/blade configuration would be correct for the neopixel blade and control box accents. Could y’all please check my blade config and schematic?

BladeConfig blades = {
{ 0,
WS281XBladePtr<131, bladePin, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin2, bladePowerPin3> >(),
WS281XBladePtr<1, blade2Pin, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin2, bladePowerPin3> >(),
WS281XBladePtr<1, blade3Pin, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin2, bladePowerPin3> >(),
SimpleBladePtr<CH2LED, NoLED, NoLED, NoLED, bladePowerPin7, -1, -1, -1>(),
SimpleBladePtr<CH2LED, NoLED, NoLED, NoLED, bladePowerPin8, -1, -1, -1>()
, CONFIGARRAY(presets) },
};

This should be setting up blade 1 as the main 131 pixel neopixel blade, blade 2 and 3 as the crystal chamber accents, and blade 3 and 4 as the control box LEDs.

Note - I will be using 22AWG for connections to the battery/neopixels and 28AWG for everything else

Wiring Diagram
Wiring Diagram1795×1356 99.1 KB

Let me know if I need to include anything else and thanks for the help!

2

Looks reasonable.
I would hook up the two crystal chamber pixels in series (one data line) and use subblade to control them individually though.

3

Thanks for the tip, will definitely do that.

Is bridging the GND and BATT- pad necessary? I’ve seen a few folks do it but I thought they were pretty much internally connected.

4

You don’t need to bridge GND and BATT-, they are connected already.
Note that you should always connect the battery to BATT-, not GND, because the connection between BATT- and GND is small, so that it can be cut if you prefer. That connection is not suitable for running 10+ amps through.

(In your drawing it means swapping the two black wires that go to the buttons and battery negative.)

5

Another good catch, thanks!