Not sure if I just have the battery wired in wrong, I’m not entirely sure how the circuit works at all. I haven’t wired in the LEDs yet because I just want to test the sound on its own, I just have the speaker, button, and battery ± wired up. I could learn electrical engineering or I could just post it here to someone who probably knows much better than me and could diagnose my problem in 2 seconds. 
I’ve tried resoldering and soldering to the other batt− terminal (cause my initial batt− soldering was a little scuffed), not sure what else I should be checking for issues
Also does the battery charge from the usb port on the proffie v2.2 or only the v3?
The v3 has charging, the V2 does not. Which do you have?
Is the battery in the right way and fully charged?
Do you have an SD loaded with the correct font set up?
Have you uploaded your config successfully?
What sounds play when hooked up to the computer that let you know it’s on?
I have an SD card with a sound font and config file programmed on, it turns on with the button and smooth swing works fine when it’s plugged into my pc. I don’t have a battery holder or kill switch or anything I just wired the + and - directly onto the board 
I don’t think I wired it in the wrong way, I think intuitively + should be red and - should be black (I took the battery out of a pre existing saber) and I’m pretty sure I checked that that’s how it was wired onto the other sabers board. IDK I’ll try flipping the + and -
Soldering batteries directly is tricky and it’s easy to damage them. Do you have a multimeter? You can set it to DC voltage and put the positive probe on what you think is batt+ and negative probe on what you think is batt-. There’a a normal reading if you’re correct, and a negative reading if you’re not. You’ll also see if the battery is outputting the right voltage still after it was heated during the soldering process.
My handmade sabers don’t use battery holders, but I try to use a connector like this Dean Micro between the battery and the board etc. You can carge through it and yoink the battery off if something goes wrong. It also lets you replace the battery without messing with your whole set up.
I do not have a multimeter 
I should probably buy one and then I’ll give it a check.
What would one have to do to fry their battery by soldering directly? Would it be suitable to solder a 2 pin connector and plug the battery in with that?
The connector was just a general suggestion if your final plan is to not have a battery holder. It wont change anything to put one on your set up as it is.
Prolonged heating of the battery during soldering will damage it. That’s why I suggest you check the battery first.
Unprotected cells are dangerous. If that’s what you’re working with, and want direct wiring, I suggest you get something like:
I always like to use the stuff I have, but when it comes to batteries and sabers…I prefer to be sure nothing will explode.
Don’t, connecting the battery backwards is not safe.
Even if the board has reverse polarity protection, you can still destroy other components, like blades.
Update: Checked the battery with a multimeter and it was fried, got a battery holder and wired it up without a battery in, put in a battery and it immediately short circuited and melted the holder. I should not be trusted with electronics, but anyways I’m not sure where the short is, there’s definitely no solder overlap between + and ground and I don’t know what else would cause it because I do not have the slightest bit of circuitry knowledge
Well, you got a multimeter so you know something
If you buy protected batteries, they will shut off instead of frying.
Please use eye protection if you can remember. Goofy goggles or clear glasses are better then burned eyes from battery contents.
You can post some pictures and we can do a visual inspection. Then it’s back to the multimeter.