Presets.ini, Multi-Blade Config, and ProffieOS Workbench

ProffieOS
1

Question is simple…

On a multi-blade setup, Presets.ini has a line for each Blade’s Style. However, is there access to these distinct per-blade styles in ProffieOS Workbench? I have not seen that designation anywhere, but I could very well be missing something.

Thanks and MTFBWY.

2

Go to the top right pencil icon to edit.
Here I have 5 blades, they’re the boxes with Style1 Style2 etc…

Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 6.21.09 PM
Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 6.21.09 PM1011×413 57.1 KB

3

I just doubled-checked and they showed up. Not sure why they didn’t show up when I first converted the config from 1 blade to 3 (could be because [Style=] was blank when I first converted). In any case, I edited Presets.ini to copy blade styles, and now each is available in ProffieOS Workbench.

Thanks and MTFBWY

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4

Any idea why ProffieOS Workbench doesn’t work to illuminate a blade in this setup? I get sound and effects when I use the Workbench, but no lights out of any of the three blades.

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5

LEDs require battery power. Turn on your kill switch, remove kill key, or insert battery.

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6

I’d love to, but I cannot access the port when battery is in (no kill switch/key in this removable chassis). Also, on my other saber (has a kill switch), I leave the kill switch off, and it illuminates a neo blade when in Workbench just fine.

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7

The point is the battery is needed to drive the LEDs. If the kill is setup properly to kill positive power to the board, it is irrelevant if using USB because the board is powered from that. If there’s a battery attached, and wired properly, then the LED’s circuit from + to - is complete when the FETs open and allow current to flow.
If there’s simply no battery, then there’s no positive power attached to the LEDs.
Hope that makes sense.

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8

Almost…one step more basic in terms of what powers what and how, and I’ll be there. Couple of follow-up questions:

  1. What do you mean kill setup properly to kill positive power to the board? I wouldn’t know that in a retail purchased removable chassis.
  2. Why does that make it irrelevant if using USB?
  3. I know nothing about FETs and why a positive is necessary, can you elaborate?

Based on your example, that means in the other saber (non-removable chassis), when I take out the battery and plug it in to ProffieOS Workbench it won’t work…
After testing, that was accurate. So, the one thing I did learn, clearly, is that there has to be a battery installed.

With no kill switch/key, is it still safe to plug in with battery in? (Not possible with the current setup given the placement of board and battery compartment.) Is there any alternative for this setup where I cannot plug in and have battery inserted simultaneously?

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  1. The kill switch should intercept positive power from the battery heading to the Proffieboard.
  2. USB provides its own power to the board, so it essentially bypasses the killswitch.
  3. Each LED pad is controlled by a MOSFET. In basic terms, it is a variable switch that allows power through at a determined amount. The negative leg of LEDs runs through the FET, while the positive is directly connected to battery power. That circuit needs to be complete for LEDs to light. So if the FET is breaking the circuit because it is “off”, no power flows. (literally just like a light switch).
    When the board has no power, FETs are turned “off” so no current passes. If you power the board with USB, and there is a battery attached, the FETs will operate normally, allowing current when the blade is on etc… so your LEDs light up. If there’s no battery, then there’s no source of positive power for the LEDs, so even though the board and the FETs are operating, there’s just no juice available to power LEDs.

It is completely safe to have battery connected or not when using USB. It is also totally fine to insert and remove that battery at any time while connected to USB.

10

Thanks for the breakdown. It’s crystal clear now!

With that explanation, I can answer my own question re: this removable chassis…there is no alternative to getting power to the LEDs.

In a disappointing turn of events, this chassis was just not built for ProffieOS Workbench capabilities, which limits its functionality from my POV.

Thanks for your help and MTFBWY!

11

The only limitation sounds like the ability to see it in real time. You can certainly edit then pop the chassis in the hilt…?
You could always add a Bluetooth module :wink:

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12

That’s a great point. I can also configure the “third blade”, which is the 8 LEDs in the back of the chassis. In doing that, I can quickly check style/color just by popping battery in, and gesture twist on, even without attaching to hilt.

Oh, and don’t get me further down the rabbit hole with BLE. Thanks for the help and MTFBWY.

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