Please fix this Kill Switch wiring diagram on the website

[ShtokyD]

The current Kill Switch wiring diagram on the website is not ideal because all current to the blade will have a bottle neck at the Kill Switch, which are usually rated only at 3-5 Amps max and will resist to the high 15-20 Amps currents that brightest neopixel blades are drawing these days.

The recommended way is to wire the Positive from the blade connector directly to the Battery Positive contact terminal (NOT to Proffieboard Batt+ pad or Kill Switch tiny leg), and having the Kill Switch on a thinner wire between Battery Pos and Batt+ pad (which in this case will be in accepted current drain range of 2-3 Amps max) only to kill power to the board:

[profezzorn]

There are some reasons why it is sometimes better to cut the power completely rather than just cutting the power to the board. (Peace of mind, leaking currents, standby time, battery life…) It depends on what is all hooked up though. We all know the 3A switches can handle more than 3A, although it’s not entirely clear how much more.

You are correct that for high power blades, it is better to avoid the kill switch. (Or build a fet-assisted kill switch that can handle the current better.) I will have a go at updating the circuit generator and replace the kill switch checkbox with a drop-down that allows both types.

I’m going to need links to the POD to explain all the options too…

[ShtokyD]

I’ve tested those Kill switches and the results are in the PDF User manual for a long time now, these switches are 5-6A, you can push them to 10A but definitely not for 20A at max brightness white neopixel color.

[ryryog25]

@profezzorn

leaking currents

On that topic: I’ve seen certain ARGB strips leech substantial current through the data line, which is problematic when only GND is cut via FET.

[Sabersense]

Whilst I agree that only putting Proffie power through the switch is preferred, there are some chassis designs with removable battery holders that only permit wiring everything through the switch.

And while we’re talking power ratings, I’ve seen quite a few Chinese hilts now that use 28awg wiring for main blade lines, and I even saw one where they’d only wired the blade to one FET instead of two. But I’ve not heard of any such hilts actually failing due to those shortcomings. (The ones I mention all came to me for repair, but it wasn’t power management that had broken on any of them).

So whilst any proper installer will always use the correct grades, I do sometimes wonder if we actually have rather more real-world headroom than we think.

[NoSloppy]

@Sabersense

I’ve not heard of any such hilts actually failing due to those shortcomings.

It would manifest itself as a lack of current to the blade a.k.a. dimmer brightness than possible.

@Sabersense

I do sometimes wonder if we actually have rather more real-world headroom than we think.

The numbers are what they are, but I tend to agree with you that sometimes we see some over-engineering.

[Sabersense]

@NoSloppy

The numbers are what they are, but I tend to agree with you that sometimes we see some over-engineering.

Which personally I’m all in favour of - if there’s space inside the chassis to do it.

[ShtokyD]

@Sabersense

And while we’re talking power ratings, I’ve seen quite a few Chinese hilts now that use 28awg wiring for main blade lines, and I even saw one where they’d only wired the blade to one FET instead of two. But I’ve not heard of any such hilts actually failing due to those shortcomings. (The ones I mention all came to me for repair, but it wasn’t power management that had broken on any of them).

they will of course work but not have a brightest blade or will have issues with sound, etc. It’s just not a correct way to do it.

[ShtokyD]

@Sabersense

Whilst I agree that only putting Proffie power through the switch is preferred, there are some chassis designs with removable battery holders that only permit wiring everything through the switch.

It’s still possible to make 2 extra connector pins for the Kill Switch in that removable pod, so everything is possible, it’s only up to the chassis designer.