I don;t have other pixels sadly. Only those leds on the old buttons.
Non of them turn on on data 2/3 and they even have their own 470ohm resistors.
Never connected battery backward and for added protection kill switch was always disconnecting cables when removing/adding battery.
Well, Iâm not sure whatâs going on here.
It seems like the pixels are getting power and data, and that should make them light up if they work.
I think I would recommend getting some other neopixels and see if they will work or not. The only other option I can think of would be to use a logic analyzer or an oscilloscope to check that the data signal actually looks correct.
Thanks for the help regardless.
As a hobby first time builder, I guess it is time to go with new board and neo pixel pcb.
Further to this Fredrik, Aaron_Blue has confirmed that during the installation of his parts, he held the main blade connector manually to his blade and applied power. I believe a short has occured.
A similiar issue to what occured on this thread here: Red Light on PCB
Such a short could do bad (and weird) things.
However, itâs unusual for it to affect all LEDs like this.
I did want to mention that this red light only came on when I tried to hold the blade to the connector bcs I thought that is what the âbladesâ mean in the power/data/fet test.
Method: I remove the battery, physically held it to the connectors (without moving when on/off cause it may be issue). Then i put the battery in and turned the kill switch off (to allow power) and then turned the blade/chassis on with the on button.
When turning off I then powered off kill switch (disconnect connect the power) and removed battery. Then i removed the blade.
I held the blade steady while my dad did the other steps. no smoke or short wires/sparks.
No reverse battery too.
Ultimately we donât know what the problem is.
It could have been holding the blade in place, it could have been something that happened earlier, or possibly just bad luck and static electricity.
My point is that we donât even really know if itâs the pixels that are damaged, or the board, or both. Getting a few extra neopixels (not a whole new blade) seems like a the cheapest way to test this. If the new pixels work, then the old pixels must be damaged, if the new pixels donât work, then the problem must be in the board, or the wiring.
Thanks Fredrick. Before I had no clue who is âprofezzorn.â Here I though it was another developer or something xD.
WHat do you mean by extra neo pixels? is there any links? As far as I know it is just small leds which can be bought at a local hardware store.
I only know of the pixels in the neo pixel connector and the inch blades.
âPixelsâ is an LED with a built-in controller. Usually they are capable of displaying any color, and controlled with the WS2811 protocol. (WS2811 is the name of the original chip which used this protocol, the protocol itself doesnât actually have a name.) Adafruit calls these sort of LED âneopixelsâ. Neopixels is a good name, but itâs trademarked by Adafruit, so I usually just call them âpixelsâ.
âpixelsâ comes in many shapes and packages, adafruit has lots of choices:
I would order a couple of single pixels in some shape thatâs easy to work with, like flora, or the diffused through-hole ones. Then you just have to wire one of these up and see what happens.
They are also handy to have around when building a crystal chamber or something. 
thanks fred 
.
Do you know if these follow the WS2811 protocol too? it could explain why even these did not light up despite only sharing the + on the neo pixel pcb.
Edit: Thanks for reply. My replies are limited for a day lol.
What do you mean by âtheseâ?
Yes, these also use the WS2811 protocol.
Thatâs what the data in/out is for.
Hi Fred, hope you are doing well!
I got back the saber fixed and it works well,
The accents leds on top were working and Neo pixel. I did not plug in a blade at all luckily! But u can see the lights perfectly. so the reverse polarity protection was working indeed.
Is the profit board broken too now or just the accent led? I would think since it survived the reverse polarity protection then touching the metal hilt where on/ignited would not destroy the board. It could destroy the accent leds since that has no resistor and my saber smith noticed they break easily.
Also how can just the pixel connectors accidentally touching the metal hilt while on (with power, blade not ignited) cause such a circuit to blow the accent LEDS (which I believe is the case?)
I only saw smoke from the button LEDS and not accent leds or the proffie board.
Unfortunately my pitiful situation means I canât test with multimeter as I need to buy all the equipment where I stay. It is only just getting replacement parts and then fixing with a solderer near me. If the board is broken I may need to abandon project for a while.
the accent led and board. as far as I can see, board is fine and wires are connected well in the accent led. I just had a doubt maybe the wire came out but that seems not likely.
On closer inspection it seems i broke the one led on the top while trying to put in the hilt. I am not even sure how bcs it is so dark inside.
Since this are series it seems that 1 broken led physical may cause the whole circuit to fail but i thought it is fine so long as it is fine internally.
Seems I need to be extra careful here. There is barely any space and this is with the led broken off.
V2 and V2 proffieboards have reverse polarity protection, however that protection only protects the board itself. Other connected components might not be so lucky, and neopixels in particular tends to die when you give them reverse current. (Although WS2813 pixels supposedly have their own reverse polarity protection and should be fine.)
No idea. A random short like that may do nothing, or it may damange everything. You would need to test it to find out.
Generally speaking it shouldnât, unless one of two things happens:
Anyways⌠without testing equipment, there is still some tests you can do, like:
1,2 both yes. I didnât notice, see or hear any sparks. It just magically came out not working. Though it did work a few times in hilt. The accent led is very loose.
Actually I even just had a quick look, based on the accent led image, I think we can see that the accent led is physically broken bcs 1 led got chipped when inserting due to massive lack of space.
Not sure if this is main cause but it mostly likely is bcs even after the button leds broke, accents/blade still worked.
Right now just 1 button led works. Speakers, sound, programming in arduino, adding new fonts, the buttons as buttons themselves all work fine . All seem perfect.
Even that one single working led seems to mimic the behaviour on code perfectly.
This all seems reasonable. It seems likely that fixing the one LED will put you back to where it was after inserting the battery backwards. (most things working, but not the button LEDs)
Yes. Thanks as well. I really hope it works, too expensive so far 
Buttons i saw them get fried with my eyes. One button is on led 2 and other button and hilt side pcb are on 4.5.6. Since 4,5 weere working before I guess the button fried internally since i did not see smoke on the other button.
The accent leds dont work but that makes sense. Not short circuit for that but it got physical destroyed in hilt. Elf saber hilts sometimes 
