TLDR: Is the below config legit for the layout? Crystal chamber and 8 LEDs in pogo connector wired in series. Before I give my mean face to the seller demanding yet another config, I want to be sure I am not simply misunderstanding or overlooking something. Arduino “version” command returns “v5.9” “Installed Apr 24 2023 20:36:55” I have backed up the compiled binary using the web DFU utility.
Background- I recently got a Proffie 2.2 saber, works great I just wanted to add some effects. I reached out to the seller and they gave me the config(s) for the saber. They were all 2 button configs and this one is a single button. I reached out again and received different single button config(s). The (s) is because the config folder under the ProffieOS folder contains 35 config files. The most recent one by date is the only one that has blade styles to match the audio files on the SD card. So by process of elimination this must be “my” config.
My issue arises at the blade config section. The saber has a crystal chamber (single LED) and 8 LEDs on the pogo blade connector. The pogo LEDs illuminate independently (on the sebulba preset they extend from the first LED (only after ignition so while the “engine idle” sound is playing). So the pogo LEDs always light up clockwise from pixel 0 to pixel 7 (as If it were a short independent blade) Pixel 4 will not illuminate unless pixels 0-3 are already illuminated. Upon the sebulba retract effect; however, the pogo LEDs are all red and appear to operate as 1, whereas if the main blade is mounted it shrinks to a 4 to 5 inch section that is illuminated on the hilt-end of the blade and the crystal always seems to act like the lowest pixels on the main blade.
The config only defines 1 blade and no sub blades. Also the config has only 1 StylePtr per preset.
I can see from the board itself that the only LED/DATA connections being used are LED2, LED3 and DATA1.
Here is where my ignorance abounds
Can you wire the LEDs in series and not define sub blades (not additional blades because the other LED/DATA pins are not soldered) and still have the LEDs in the blade connector operate independently? Is this something that blade detect does magically? (So I have a 36 inch blade. This should be 133 pixels correct? Plus 8 for the blade connector and 1 for the crystal chamber so a total of 142?
Finally do you always define a PWR and AUX button at the bottom of the config even if you only have 1 button?
Here is the config.
Thank you very much for any assistance you are willing to extend!
That is an old config for sure.
[quote=“IPewpKyber, post:1, topic:4670”]
Can you wire the LEDs in series and not define sub blades (not additional blades because the other LED/DATA pins are not soldered) and still have the LEDs in the blade connector operate independently? Is this something that blade detect does magically?
(So I have a 36 inch blade. This should be 133 pixels correct? Plus 8 for the blade connector and 1 for the crystal chamber so a total of 142?[/quote]
No and no.
First, your math is correct if it were all in series as one long blade.
But if that’s how it’s wired, what you are seeing is not independent behavior. It’s unlikely that they did a data out from the last LED to the center pin, but not impossible. Which PCB is it? Got pics?
You most likely have everything in parallel.
You do not, but there’s no harm in having it there. Now if you add an Aux switch, that part’s done for you.
OK, parallel makes sense based on the number of wires that look like they are going to LED2 and LED3 (I can see under the board a bit but pictures of the underside my weak phone cannot do). I was afraid if they were wired in parallel the current draw would be too high. My physics class was a while ago but I had friends burn up amps dropping the impedance by putting too many speakers in parallel. I should have realized these LEDs have pretty low impedance already. Or are we just talking the data wire needs to be in series? Sorry we can table that it isn’t important.
Here is the PCB. In my searching of the website where I got it (CCSabers) I do not see one quite the same.
The molded “core” has the word SABER in Aurebesh font stamped on it.
I do have more pics in this folder…
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wWG6jEXxetZ0oQWqMdfkvD-SAcP4lEj7?usp=sharing
That looks like a TXQ config–did the source config file have a name like: “P-TXQ1B20220829.h”
It also looks like a stock TXQ hilt connector–I could tell you the pin-outs if it was one of CCSabers 89Sabers installed hilts, but I haven’t disassembled my TXQ saber yet… sorry. I will say it is a strange pixel connector–I have not seen it’s like on any of the usual parts sites.
Yes, the name of the file is P-TXQ1B20220829.h. I have a 2 button version of this saber as well and I am unsure of which config file would be used with it. 
The internals look the same aside from the aux button being soldered. I believe they are using the 5V to power the lights on the main button on the 1 button and pow/aux buttons on the 2 button. But that isn’t affected by the config is it?
I did get a backup of the compiled binary config using the DFU Util so I guess I could just load what they gave me and if it doesn’t work ask for more configs.
Can I do any irreparable damage using the files they gave me?
You should also have a file named “P-TXQ2B…” that would be for the 2 button saber vs 1 button saber. You said you have a backup using the Proffieboard Programmer–that should give you piece of mind and the ability to recover if you flash the board and it doesn’t work as expected.
Assuming you are going to use ProffieOS7, you will need to tweak those config files… despite the file names, they are old. First, check the font folder names in the config against the ones on your SD card to make sure they match (case sensitive)… and you’ll need a common folder with a voice pack–there are directions on how to do that and how to add it to your presets. The other change I made was to ensure WebUSB was enabled–Serial+WebUSB (I think that was a reco from NoSloppy–avoids the problem of having to eject the SD card).
Thank you all for your help! I was able to get it working with V7.13. Now I just need to adjust the clash and then I will start loading some new presets! 
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