have jumped onboard and now a saber owner went with a KR eco hero, i have it all working but a few things to improve and first up is the thin neck wiring it’s not fab but worked and for first go i was happy hehe but now am hooked in and want it perfect , blsde function is main blade and the neopixel connections mirroring main blade
i followed this wiring diagram so 4 wires to the neopixel connector 1 data 1 positive and 2 negative and followed this through the grenade section to the emitter side pcb
but in reading and trying to learn more it seems the grenade section i could get away with just 3 wires by eliminating a negative connection? and didn’t want to just try it and then need to repair as something stopped working, wire diagram i found on the 3 wire setup
i have two 22awg going to the chassis pcb and 2 22awg going to the emitter pcb, can i just cut one of the ones to the emitter pcb and be fine or do i need to bridge before the chassis pcb?
If you mean between the 2 pcb in the neck, yes you should be fine. the pcbs negative traces should be all inner connected in the pcb. So one wire from one to another should be fine.
The bridge part I meant was on the proffieboard itself. Usually we use led pad 2-3 to drive the blade to divide the load on 2 mosfet (2 pads) that we bridge. Or you can run 2 wires like you did. But I always do just the 1. If you were using 2x 24awg I would say it’s all good but 2x22 is over kill and not necessary since you have only one 22 positive anyways.
yes was the wires inside the neck, building my own blade and that having three wires lead me to all this research
i dived into this with not much knowledge at all as was part of the fun, at the moment will take overkill vs under hehe :), and will possibly revisit that also as less wires makes a nicer install and easier to service if needed
loving all this but think i need to go back 30 years and do electronics at school
, blsde function is main blade and the neopixel connections mirroring main blade
