Very nice.
You could potentially use something smaller than xt30 for the data, but it might be good to have a sturdy connector.
Wait, what is “positive return path” ?
I frequently use multi-pin chassis connectors–I’ve used the TSM connector, the 89Sabers connector, Shtok 10 pole connector (it’s better as an 8 pin connector, as you pointed out), and one you didn’t mention, the Shadowfoil props 8 pin connector ( 8 Pole Square Keyed Connector).
The TSM connector does take some thought on how you want to use it. I wire BATT+ to the 5V pads, which are connected and run over multiple pins. You can use them like the extra B+ pads on a hilt-side connector when wiring B+ to accents. I have had no issues with high-amp blades–but you need to use all the LED pads–I run one 20awg bridged to LED2&3 at the proffieboard and at the connector, and a second 20awg from LED4. I’ve only used the B+ pin as B+ when I wired a kill switch on the other side of the chassis connector in a 3 way configuration.
The 89Sabers connectors are also an excellent option. I’ve had no issues with them powering quad blades–I’ve been told they can handle 12 amps–and I’ve probably pushed that a little. One caution–there are two manufacturers making after market 13 pin connectors and they are labeled differently and some of them are misprinted–the numbers are painted the same on both sides and not reversed, so you end up need to wire pin 4 on one side to pin 1 on the other. It’s best to confirm the connections with a multi-meter.
The Shtok 10 pole connector and Shadowfoil 8 pole connector are both great for connecting 8 pins: you could do Batt +, LED234, data1, data2, data3, button1, button2, and GND with either of those connectors–using shared power pins with the LEDs consolidated on one connection. Personally, I’d run the emitter and cross-guards in series on Data2, and add Free1 for blade detect.
The TSM connector, Shtock 10 pole and shadowfoil 8 pole connectors are directional–which could be an issue for some chassis configurations. If you need it to free rotate, you could wire the buttons on Batt+ as others have mentioned, and run as much of the data in series–and get down to 6 or 7 pins.
The TSM is 24mm in diameter vs the Shtock which is 20mm–the Shadowfoil is the smallest, but square. The 13pin connectors are 23.5x22–and 13mm deep when connected. I have a chassis design I’m working on using the square shadowfoil connector plus a 4 pin pogo connector for a few extra connections… but it’s still in the early design stage. I’m pursuing that because the hilt doesn’t have the length for the depth of the 89Sabers style 13 pin connector.
For custom connectors–there are lots of options. The bulgin pin connectors are great for power–the ones on KR are rated for 10A ( Bulgin 10A Pin Set For GOTH3D Chassis – The Saber Armory), but you can get higher rated ones on AlieE. for the low-amp lines, there are many pogo pin connector options ( 4P 6P Male Female spring loaded pogo pin connector 4 6 pin dual row surface mount SMT DIP Pitch: 2.54mm).
I made a custom 12mm thin-neck connector using 2 bulgin pins and a 3 pin dupont connector with lots of space to spare.
Depending on the hilt configuration–another connector option: spring battery connectors. You could use 2 of those for the cross-bars.
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Yeah, XT30’s aren’t really needed but already a bit small. The hardest part is actually finding a way to secure them in the 3d print so they won’t pull out (I’m leaning toward epoxy).
Positive return path – I don’t use kill key or switch, the blade itself completes the circuit (hence the 2nd positive). My current one uses GX16, I think you had something similar on your older (teensy saber v1/v2) board? I didn’t like the idea of forgetting to turn the saber off and draining it. This way is super simple… insert blade, use it, remove blade. No blade retention screw, no kill switch, very simple.
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Indeed, I did have something like that in my early sabers.
(Still do in the ones that still work.)
There is an MT30 and MR30, which both have 3 pins. I was trying to do something similar, but they were really hard to pull apart. I was worried that if I glued it to something 3d printed it would come apart when I tried to disconnect it. In the end I gave up!
@hal314 - funny, I did the same thing… I have some MR30’s here, but you’re right they’re really hard to pull apart. I can just barely do it with my fingers, I have strong doubts they wouldn’t just rip out in a saber.
The one thing I seen is you can squeeze the male pins with pliers to make them easier. But I may even end up going with xt60 connectors, primarily because they’re just so much easier to insert and remove.
A really cool thing is now they have xt60 + 4, basically two large power pins and four small data pins. If I feel like those connectors are somewhat standardized and easy to find, I might decide to use something like that