I have completed my first porffieboard v3.9 assembly. Sw 7.15.
The sword works well but I notice that the music played by the track player and the menu sounds come out a little distorted.
The sounds of the sound bank are played correctly.
In the configuration I made I used the sounds of the Italian menu downloaded from the official proffieboard website and the tracks are WAV files that were originally contained in the sound bank folders but that I have now moved to common/tracks.
From a preliminary analysis it seems that all the sounds contained in the common folder are distorted.
Is this possible or is it a hardware problem (card or speaker)?
What font did you use the menu sounds with?
Did you find the same results with different fonts?
If I had to guess, your font is too quiet compared to the menu sounds (which are clean, not distorted, normalized to 0dB) and you have your master volume set to a loud value that sounds good for your font, but too high for the normal volume menu sounds.
TL;DR
Try increasing the font levels.
On my PC the sounds do not seem distorted and they are 44khz 16bit mono wav.
From serial monitor, when I start the track player I do not see any audio errors.
This is the extract from the serial monitor when I launch the payer and play a distorted file:
Do you have the battery connected when testing this? Or is it running on USB power?
If you reduce the volume to something low, like say 500, does it still sound distorted?
The sword sound like poweron, Clash, ecc sound fine. All music in track player Is distorted.
Some menù voise are distorte but not all.
One or two boot sound are distireted on 10 sounfont, other boot sound Is ok.
First of all: That sounds very strange. It’s not problem I can identify just by the sound.
The tracks do seem very loud though, much louder than the default font, which seems to sound ok.
Do you have filters configured in your config file?
The warbling in the sound makes me think that the problem is something that happens repeatedly. Like 100 times per second or something. I’m not sure what that would be though. It could be some sort of over-current protection in the amplifier or in the booster.
Another possibility is that there is something going on with the clock circuit. (Maybe the shrink wrap is interfering with it?)
Either way, these are just speculations. These are weird and unusual errors.
Now that I think about it, after assembling the card in the case, by activating the kill switch you could hear the boot sound that started regularly but then it slowed down a lot and with it all the sword’s sounds.
Since before assembling inside the case the problem did not occur I thought of an anomalous contact of the wires. I disassembled everything and reassembled everything and the problem did not occur again.
could I have damaged the card anyway at that moment?
I took the board out of the case and tested it with every wire and new component (battery, kill switch, speaker), unfortunately this board distorts the audio so I think it is damaged.
I have another proffieboard that seems to have no problems, with the same hardware, software and configuration file it also seems to have a higher volume than the previous one.
Now I’m about to put the new proffieboard back in the case but before I do I wanted to ask you where the clock circuit is and what I should do to avoid damaging this board too.
Now I have finish to change the sound board like in the pictures and everything seems to work fine.
Now I can add a small foam paper between board and termal wrap ro isolate the clock circuit and prevent the sound problem.
What do you think? Could It work?
These wires have too much exposed and are at risk of touching other things they should not. It may be working now, but if you squeeze those wires down towards the board with a wrap, they will almost certainly short to other components.
Your battery positive looks like it’s possibly contacting the 5V pad, as well as the green wire touching some capacitors.
Before you finalize your install, you should clean those up so only a very small amount of wire is extending out of the sheathing so that they only contact the intended pad.
After you clean up the soldering a bit as suggested, you can use kapton tape to secure it to the chassis. It’s super thin, non conductive, and one of the best things I learned about on this forum.
