If you don't mind to review my config. Comments and questions added in the config

Proffieboards Padawan Area
42

No, pF is literally a million times smaller than uF.

43

Oops, I typed “”F” in their search engine but they use “uF” instead.

One of these maybe ?
CapacitorToAddForBluetoothModule

I am guessing the 3V or the 6V one ?

And while I am at it with tiny components, do I need the 470 homs resistor for my crystal chamber LED ?

DoIneedThisResistor
DoIneedThisResistor1234×889 51.8 KB

The LED is:

To me it seems it already has a 750 ohms resitor on board ? Is the on board one enough ?

44

3V is too low, 6V or higher should work.
What size are those though? 0603 and 0804 should work.

45

You also probably don’t want tantalums.

(Look for ceramic)

2 Likes
46

I’m on my phone driving so forgive wonky speech to text translation. Let me try to explain this as I understand it.
In recently trying to maximize a single button use for my prop file, I’ve come to understand even better what’s possible.
First you have pressed which is the depression of the button.
Next you have single click, which is press and release of the button.
Next you have three held durations, held, held medium, and held long.
Each one of those negates use of the previous, meaning you can’t have both a held and a held medium, or a held and a held long, or a held medium and a held long.
Trying to use any of those in the same prop you will never get to the longer duration because the first one triggers
first.
So for when you’re looking for a held extra long, you would not be able to use any other held duration for that number click.
If you wanted to make it rather obscure, I would suggest that four times click and held long is probably the furthest away from something usable or is already assigned. Add in a modifier button and you’ve got your button event .
BUTTON_POWER, EVENT_FOURTH_HELD_LONG | BUTTON_POWER, I assume you’d do MODE_OFF, but I guess it could be while on too, just seems a bit awkward to magically transform into a thermal detonator while you’re saber was already on and running.

47

They are 6032 metric, which would be 2412 in inches, and that is waaaay too big !

I guess I am out of luck in this country, in ceramic 0603, they have:

  • CAPACITOR CERAMIC 100nF 25V SMD 0603 X7R
  • CAPACITOR CERAMIC 330nF 25V SMD 0603 X7R
    and in 0805, they have:
    a lot more but they are in pF or nF nothing in ”F so either 1000 or 1 million too small. I had the same problem when looking for wires for my build. When I asked for 24 avg of different colors, they looked at me like I was speaking Russian or Chinese ! Same for 28mm 4ohm/3W speaker, answer “That does not exist !”

As much fun as I am having chatting with you all and enjoying the programing side of solving problems, the physical part of the build is getting me very very frustrated! I should have got it installed by a professional from a country where the supplies are easily available! Now I will end up having to pay an arm and a leg for shipping a 0.40$ part and risking it doesn’t work because I messed up the soldering !Ok rant over, sorry about that but I had to “vent”. Back to reading about C & C++.

Have a good night guys.

1 Like
48

That’s another reason you don’t want tantalums
 they tend to be much bigger.

I’m out of my element, but looking at amazon.de (According to the all-knowing reddit shipping to malta isn’t supposed to be too bad? I dunno, maybe the shipping isn’t much different than other places and this is moot), there’s listings like this which assuming shipping isn’t super high would probably be perfectly adequate?

Hard to say
 a lot of this listings seem rather dodgy (and nonsensical) to me


For all I know though that’s wrong size too now that I think about it
 (maybe just ignore me)

49

Ignore you ? Absolutely not, you took the time to look for me, I will look into it.

But yeah 6€ shipping for 2.34€ value that is more than double the value in shipping.

There is an online malte electronic shop. Their customer service is crap, communication is zero and delivery time varies between 2 days to 3 weeks, usually it is 3 weeks + 1 day. Prices are decent at least. I will wait till I am done with my house moving and then I will order. But thank you anyway.

While chatting with you
@ryryog25, in the config I got from ProffieConfig there are these two lines:

//PROFFIECONFIG ENABLE_MASS_STORAGE 
//PROFFIECONFIG ENABLE_WEBUSB

I tried to compile after removing the “//” but I got an error. I guess it is not part of POS but rather a reminder to select them in Arduino. I that correct ?

1 Like
50

Those are ProffieConfig magic


Not really. As you know, comments make the line invisible to the compiler and code. ProffieConfig uses them (for those two relatively simple things) to actually store its own settings.

As you’ve noticed, PROFFIECONFIG ENABLE_MASS_STORAGE is not a valid line of C (or C++) and won’t compile. What it’s there for is so that whenever a config is saved to a file, and then read back into ProffieConfig, ProffieConfig knows those options should be selected.

Internally in ProffieConfig V1, there is no such thing as a special saved state or savefile. It does everything through the config .h file, and since those options to enable mass storage and webusb aren’t options in the config, there’d be normally no way to save them and/or specify them in the config.

So instead ProffieConfig saves those lines into the config while it’s generating the CONFIG_TOP (if they’re enabled of course), and then when it reads the CONFIG_TOP back, it looks for lines that start with a few things:

  • #include (for the proffieboard version based on what file is included)
  • #define (for the define options, duh)
  • const unsigned int maxLedsPerStrip because that specific option wanted to be all unique and special (I know there’s a technical reason for it but that’s less dramatic and petty-sounding)
  • //PROFFIECONFIG For proffieconfig-specific options it is saving. In effect those two are the only ones saved this way.

While the config is loaded into the program, those options are used to set the specific arduino options to enable the settings during compilation, and it makes sense people would want to save them, so with the V1 system, that was the cleanest/simplest way I thought of to save those settings.

I suppose it could also double as that, but that’s certainly not the original intent. :slight_smile: (Yay, bonus features!)

1 Like
51

By the way @olivierflying747-8 since you’re going down a rabbit hole One Of Us
 and tackling some C++, you might be curious to see that code:

There’s probably some stupid things I did in that code (my style has changed a lot since I wrote this particular section), but perhaps interesting nonetheless.

1 Like
52

And what about this resistor ? Is the resistor 470 ohms needed. Sorry @profezzorn , I edited my above post after you had already seen it.

53

There should be a resistor somewhere at the start of each data line. The V2.2 has an onboard resistor for bladePin (data1), but not the others. Maybe there’s one on this pcb led but you might have to ask. Otherwise for these small jobs that don’t have a full blade pcb with resistors or internal resistor in the blade, you need one of these little guys.

54

image
Isn’t that it ?

55

I saw that :slight_smile: Yeah I would hope so, but if it’s not explicit on the site I ask the seller. Now I’m curious so I messaged saberbay. Then we know for sure.

56

Wow, thanks but I didn’t order that pixel alone.
I ordered this chassis with parts, Proffie v3.9, Bluetooth & OLED.

It came with:
FULL PARTS KIT includes:
-choice of soundboard (CFX, ProffieV3.9, GHV3)
-qty. 1 assembled NPXL V3 shortpin hiltside connector
-qty. 1 single pixel accent LED
-qty.1 KeepPower 18650 3000mah 15A button top protected cell
-qty. 1 high amp killswitch
-qty.1 blue TCSS OLED screen (for OLED chassis options)
-qty. 1 Bluetooth BT909 Breakout board module (for Bluetooth chassis options)
-qty.1 28mm X-BASS 4ohm/3W bass speaker

I can only assume that the accent LED above is the one that came with my chassis as it is the only one they are selling, if I want to buy one separately.

57

Nice kit! I don’t think it’s unreasonable to ask them, even if they don’t do install Q & A. Especially since you spend over $100 :slight_smile:

Some kits don’t come with resistors, and almost none come with wires. You’d be safe using one even if there is one onboard. If I hear back I’ll post, or you could also ask.

I recently did an install with parts from KR, and even though there was a resistor on the pcb, Khal recommended an external resistor. Although this one reads 750 (which you can verify with your multimeter) and the adafruit version KR has was much lower. If it was a 330 ohm, it would seem more obvious.

58

From Saberbay:

“Hi it’s already resistored“

Sweet. Now we all know :slight_smile:

59

Super cool, thanks again for asking him.

Especially since I have already assembled everything, except for the Proffie board, with some 5 min epoxy. I know I should have used E6000, but that is another thing not available here. Even though E6000 is some contact glue, I read, for the crystal chamber, I had no way to keep pressure for that many hours so I used 5 min epoxy Gorilla glue. And the “crystal” (in resin) is frosted so I can’t see inside.

So @LyleStyle it is my understanding that you are an installer ? Do you have a Youtube channel where you show your builds ? I love watching saber install videos, it give me inspiration.

60

You can look at my stuff here on the Crucible, which will link to my very amatuer youtube channel. I had time to do some videos this summer, including a nice kit install, an original piece, and some dojo work.

I’m not an installer, I’m a DIYer that really enjoys this community and doing builds for myself, friends, and family. Building sabers leads to all kinds of knowledge, and chances to interect with interesting people. It’s fun and a pleasant thing to think about :slight_smile: