I think it’s a battery issue

I posted previously about adding a usb C charge port but I went ahead and wired up the hilt to test it. Proffie 2.2 btw

Unfortunately after wiring it up I got nothing when I flipped the switch. I figured switch was bad so I jumped the switch and still nothing.

I then hooked up the usb port and it connected and played some sounds that were very garbled.

I was able to turn it on by jumping the switch while it was connected to the usb. As soon as I disconnect the usb can’t get it to turn on.

I think the battery may be no good or there is something wrong with the proffie.

I’d appreciate some feedback or tests to run

You mean as soon as you disconnect USB?

Yes sorry, disconnect from usb. I was up late soldering and it’s catching up to me. I edited the post so I don’t confuse anyone. Thank you

So this sounds a lot like the infamous “broken D61” issue.

(See the part map to find D61)

For some reason, D61 has a tendency to crack, and when it does, it stops working. However, for some reason it seems you can kickstart it by using USB power, and it keeps working even if you unplug the USB. Once all power is removed, it stops working again.

Do you have warranty on this board?

If I remove the power it doesn’t work. I cannot get anything to work without the usb plugged in.

Is the diode cracked or the solder joint? Is this fixable or is the board trash?

I’m pretty sure the board is out of warranty. If you remember there was a time when you couldn’t get those so I would order whenever they were in stock. I forgot who I ordered these from but they were first runs and were cut too wide. The company is slowly turning into a saber shop. The name will come to me eventually. I might have the receipt somewhere but it was a while ago.

Replacing the diode fixes the problem, it’s fiddly but possible to do with a regular soldering iron, as long as you have a fairly sharp point on it.

If you have a hot-air rework station is fairly easy.

The part map above also links to the BOM, which lists part numbers and has links to at least one place where you can buy the part. If you have a non-working board somewhere, you might be able to steal a diode from it for the replacement.