First ever build - Proffie wiring help

Hello fellow saber enthusiasts! I got a Darth Maul 2022 saber staff from Korbanth this last year that I have been dreaming of installing myself. As the title states, this will be my first ever lightsaber install so I wanted to double check with the experts before I bought everything. After perusing through the Proffie manual, the Shtok manual, and any other saber install related YouTube video I could find, this is what I have come up with. How does my wiring diagram look? Any advice or recommendations for a first-time installer?

For this install I am looking to get the chassis from The Saber Armory (GOTH-3D Korbanth DM2022 FDM ECO Chassis – The Saber Armory). The LEDs are the part of this install that I am really unsure about. Each side of the staff has two accent LEDs plus another one for the crystal pommel. Should I wire them up differently?

I also plan to use a Proffie V3.9 for this install.

I will take any advice I can get for this first install. I have watched install videos from Megtooth Sabers and many other resources. I appreciate any and all help!

If at all possible, I would use a separate data wire for the accent LEDs so they can be controlled separately from the blade.

In fact, I would probably use three data wires so they can each be controlled individually :slight_smile: (Since they don’t seem to have a data out pad)

As far as I can tell, the rest looks fine, but please beware that it’s very easy to miss something when checking other people’s wiring diagrams, so more eyes is always better. :slight_smile:

Some might argue it would be better to keep the blade’s full current out of the killswitch by just having it interrupt power to the board like this instead:

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If you use this style of accent pixel Adafruit NeoPixel RGB Accent 5050 LED – The Saber Armory then your wiring for them can follow how you’ve captured. You’d go from board to the Data In, then from Data out to next data In etc to chain them.

In your blade config then you can configure 4 blades as sub blades using

BladeConfig blades[] = {
{ 0,
   SubBlade(0, 0, WS2811BladePtr<145, WS2811_580kHz>()), //accent 1
   SubBlade(1, 1, NULL),  //accent 2
   SubBlade(2,2, NULL), //accent 3
   SubBlade(3, 145, NULL) //main blade
   CONFIGARRAY(presets) 
}
};

Should be a total of 146 in your example. SubBlade pixel numbers are offset by -1.
Or, if you meant a typical 3 meter strip “default” of 144, then the main blade should be
SubBlade(3, 146, NULL) //main blade
and the total would be WS2811BladePtr<147.

1 meter perhaps?

Oops yeah I just used the pod sub blade example and tweaked for 3x single accent but forgot to change the main blade and total pixel amounts.

lol oops. Yes of course I meant 1 meter. I had “3M” in my head for some reason, maybe thinking of the backing adhesive.

actually just to confirm, does the SubBlade example ProffieOS Documentation: Blade Configuration (hubbe.net) need to be updated from this

BladeConfig blades[] = {
{ 0,
   SubBlade(0, 1, WS2811BladePtr<145, WS2811_580kHz>()),
   SubBlade(2, 14, NULL),  //Quilon A
   SubBlade(14,26, NULL), //Quilon B
   SubBlade(27, 145, NULL) //Main Blade
   CONFIGARRAY(presets) 
}
};

Either by raising the first reference to <146 or the end pixel in SubBlade(27, 145, NULL) to 144?

the subBlade example on the dedicated SubBlade page is correct. ProffieOS Documentation: SubBlade (hubbe.net)

Yes, that is correct. (Updated)

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Looks like 14 should have been a 15 too. I updated it.

Hmm, “quilon”?

https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/quillon

How about “Crossguard blade” instead?

You should bring that up at time traveler’s weekend at the NY Ren Faire :slight_smile: I bet it concludes with an “I said good day, sir!”

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Thanks everyone for your responses and insight! I apologize that it has taken me so long to respond, but I finally have some time to work on this and all of my supplies just arrived.

I took your advice @DudeFromOz and bought this NANO NEOPIXEL RGB ACCENT LED - CHAINABLE - The Saber Armory. This accent LED has the data in and data out pads so I should be able to chain them as you suggested. I am posting an updated wiring diagram with these new LEDs. Did I do the wiring correctly? Thank you again everyone for your input on this!

Looks good! I might move the negative line for the little pixel chain to the top closer to where the main neg is. Not sure if the pin you chose ‘floats’, meaning it only connects to the ground circuit when a blade is inserted.

That would have been my comment too, I’d use the two pads to the left and right of the negative pin at the 12 o’clock position.

So if I am understanding you both correctly, I would move the purple ‘ground’ wire to this new pad in the diagram?

I think so :slight_smile: I recently did that and it worked. Although that pin we’re complaining about could be connected to the one above it internally. Looks like it on the page in the NPXL manual describing the order of the onboard LEDs. But since there’s an empty solder pad right in that spot on your new diagram, I vote for best choice.