So I recently was installing a new Proffieboard V2 and I noticed that somehow the c11 cap was missing. Desoldered, fell off, gremlins, who knows how? I did have a few spares that I had ordered from mouser a while back so I used my rework gun and some paste and replaced it. It appeared to have gone okay but earlier today I turned it on and now I have no audio. Blade ignites and seems to be fine and serial monitor doesnt indicate anything unusual but I have no audio whatsoever. Not even the faint crackling audio. Nothing at all. Any suggestions?
If something mechanically removed it, like a scrape, perhaps something else is damaged? Can you post a photo of the board to inspect?
Did you measure it?
A short under C11 would make sound not work.
I measured the 5v pad while sound was playing and am getting 5v and am getting actually getting some sound since I switched it for another speaker but the sound I’m getting is extremely low and muffled a long with a very high pitched whine behind it I can hear while the sound is playing. If the booster was fried wouldn’t I NOT be getting 5v on the 5v pad when sound was playing or not playing? Im just not sure what I did at this point and am totally up for suggestions from anyone that knows more than me, which is most.
If the 5v pad is working as expected, then the booster is probably fine.
If the booster is fine, and the speaker is fine, then the problem almost has to be in the amplifier…
Is there a solution or at least a workaround for the amplifier being the problem?
Replace the amplifier.
Is there anything that you could possibly think of that could also be causing the issue other than the amplifier having gone bad? Just want to be as certain as possible before I try to replace the amplifier and hopefully with success will be the end of the issue. Also, have any suggestions or tips for me in the replacing of the amp? I have a hot air station and solder paste, tweezers, koptan tape, magnetic solder pad. Hopefully I can make it work with those things, well plus a replacement amplifier…
I mean it could be a software thing, like turning down the volume…
Have you tried “get_volume” in the serial monitor?
Wouldn’t explain the high-pitch whine though.
I know some people have had to replace speakers several times until they found one that works, maybe make sure your speaker works properly?
If you have an oscilloscope or a logic analyzer, you could look at the output from the amplifier and see if seems reasonable. It’s a class D amplifier though, so a ~400kHz full-amplitude PWM signal is what is expected…
I’m also wondering what caused the amplifier to fail if that is in fact what happened? Could this be indicative of an even larger issue or defect that I should look out for? I mean this kinda all started with my noticing the c11 being absent when I was putting components onto the board to put into a hilt, and it’s kinda spiraled into this whole mess now. Just curious if this was because of my carelessness, method, bad parts ect ect…
I don’t know.
If the only problem was that C11 was missing, I don’t see a reason for that to break the amplifier. However, if C11 was ripped off, maybe some of the traces got damaged? Or maybe something happened during rework? It’s difficult to say.
I haven’t actually thrown it back onto the serial monitor since the very beginning and checked the get volume. I’ll do that shortly because why not it certainly couldnt hurt the situation at this point. I unfortunately don’t have much other than a multimeter to really check the connections or flow on any of the parts so It’s just the basic combined with your knowledge I’m kinda riding on here. I appreciate your input on all of this and everything else you’ve commented on for mine and anyone else’s requests for advice, Profezzorn. Always a huge help to all of us just trying to improve our builds and our own skills as well!
Well either way, take the plunge tonight and hopefully will come out the other end successfully or at the very least a bit more knowledgeable about the whole experience. I do still have an old board I could remove the amplifier from and use that as the replacement. It was one that ended up cracked after being stepped on(oops)… so I’d imagine the amplifier is likely still good on it. I’ll report back as soon as I feel I’ve either done all I could, or melted the board entirely.
Just keep the temperatures as low as you can, and there is no reason why you shouldn’t be able to rework the board a dozen times.
So what would you say? 360f being about the hottest with the hot air gun?
I don’t remember what I use honestly (it’s a set-it-and-forget-it sort of thing), it also depends a lot on equipment, solder and air flow. Obviously you want the solder to melt, but just barely, it should take a little longer than soldering with an iron.