Hello all!! A bit of a wiring/core building newbie here… I’ve wired a simple Proffie 3.9 core with a single button, using an in-hilt pogo pixel PCB connector for the blade. Used the wiring diagram for this soundboard generated via the Proffieboard v3.9 configuration generator, with the above components.
The core works just fine seemingly as-is – powers up, switches to new fonts as expected, pogo PCB LEDs light as expected. However, when I attempt to connect it to a neopixel blade, the board effectively “shuts down” (thankfully doesn’t burn out – yikes!); to reset it, I have to remove the battery, and it returns to operating as noted here, until I again attempt to connect it to a blade.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what might be happening, what I might need to take a closer look at in terms of wiring and/or the config file, etc.? Since this process – and posting on a forum such as this – is new to me, please let me know at your convenience what further information or files I might want to post/attach to help troubleshoot.
Thank you all in advance for your assistance!! MTFBWY
P.S.: again, being new to this stuff, I’m not 100% certain what to search for in the help forums like Crucible, Reddit, etc., and thus if there is already a topic addressing this issue – first off, my apologies! – and second, a reference to that link etc. would be greatly appreciated as well!! 
My first guess is that the protection circuit on the battery is activating.
Is the battery rated for 10+ amperes?
Is it fully charged?
What kind of battery is it?
I’m pretty certain it’s rated as such – they’re batteries I’ve used in my other (already constructed 
) sabers. This isn’t the shop where I purchased it, but one such type of battery in my stash that I’ve tried is the Custom Saber 18650:
Another is the Trustfire 18650 battery (can’t seem to track down the specifics at the moment – possibly from the Saber Armory but can’t recall specifically).
For each of these, they were indeed fully charged.
Thank you again for your help!!!
Hmmm, I still think profezzorn might be right. It’s possible to have some sabers have a lower amperage draw. There are 3 aspects to all batteries I’ve noticed: size, voltage, amperage
18650 - 18mm diameter with a a 65mm length and and extra zero at the end
3.7v - average voltage, with a bit of a range when moving from charged to not
? A - the amount of current that the battery can supply before it fails or trips the protection switch so it doesn’t burn
So it would be good to know for sure what your amp rating is. Some sabers avoid certain colors or brightness levels to allow for lower amp battery use.
EDIT: While I’m thinking about it, the next thing I’d check for is a short happening at the blade/pcb.
So, the batteries you have seems like they should be fine, but I would highly recommend trying a few different batteries to be sure. Every now and then a battery is just bad, and won’t work as it should.
Once you’re quite sure batteries aren’t the issue, shorts would be the next thing to check.
In particular, this can happen if the pogo pins are bent, loose or off-center.
Does this happen as soon as you connect the blade, or once you try to turn the saber on?
Another way to test things is to check the voltage between + and - on the battery before and after the “reset” occurs. If the voltage drops to near zero, then the protection circuit must be triggering, the only question is why? (short or bad battery)
If on the other hand the voltage is fine, then we can move on to checking for other types of problems.
Thank you so much for your suggestions and guidance!! I’ll have to check into these things… I’m almost certain that none of the pogo pins are messed up, I’ve tried to handle it pretty gently, but definitely worth checking.
As for when it happens, it is when I attempt to switch the saber on.
Again, thanks for your help, now and forthcoming! 
And to you as well, Lyle!
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Aaannddd… as things often seem to go, now the problem has ceased 
: the core connects to the blade fine, lights it up on activation, stays activated, doesn’t shut down. 
Interestingly, what ISN’T working now, though, is the momentary switch… which leads me to suspect that THAT component might’ve had a short in its wiring (or the switch itself) someplace. Will go ahead and replace/redo that part.
Thank you again, all, for your help!! (If you do happen to have some suggestions regarding where such shorts commonly might occur in a switch or its hookup, that would certainly be much appreciated , but I appreciate the time you’ve already dedicated to your replies.) MTFBWY!!!
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