Can I use cree xm-l rgbw 12w Power led in proffieboard? The resistore Is the seme of xpe2 leds ok the configurator site?
yes
Not sure I get the question, and I’m not sure if the resistors should be the same as xpe2 or not.
The led Channel on proffieboard is pre resitored? Can I use de nominale 3.7v of the battery for calcolate the corret resietors?
No.
Yes you can.
Ok, so maybe i can use the same resistor that I used in other lightsaber with xm-l rgbw.
I added only a small resistor for green led becouse the green light was too strong and the colors with green (likes Yellow) was alterated.
I Will do some test with proffieboard for this.
THX.
I left this project behind and am now reviving it. I want to use a Cree XML RGBW 12W LED on the proffeboard. In the configurator, I set “4 channel LED star” and the “illuminated” button.
It generated the following configuration:
BladeConfig blades[ ] = {
{ 0, SimpleBladePtr<CreeXPE2RedTemplate<1000>, CreeXPE2GreenTemplate<0>, CreeXPE2BlueTemplate<240>, CreeXPE2WhiteTemplate<550>, bladePowerPin1, bladePowerPin2, bladePowerPin3, bladePowerPin4>(),
SimpleBladePtr<CreeXPE2WhiteTemplate<550>, NoLED, NoLED, NoLED, blade5Pin, -1, -1, -1>()
, CONFIGARRAY(presets) },
};
First of all, “XPE2 Template” is used, which I don’t know if is correct in the XML.
Furthermore, for each LED, the resistor value is specified as indicated in the configurator. However, I don’t know if those resistors will be used.
How does PoffieOS 7.15 behave when I specify the resistor value in the template? If I specify the resistor in the blade configuration, do I still have to physically add the resistor to the LED? Or does the specified value replace the physical resistor?
The resistor value for the blade connected to the LED on the button is configured with a WhiteTemplate profile and a resistor of 550, is this correct? Do I need to add a 0.55ohm resistor or does the software compensate for this?
The resistor value in the config informs ProffieOS of what resistor you used, it’s not instead of using a resistor.
It’s probably close enough, but let me check the data sheets a bit…
Generally speakin the XML LEDs seems to handle more current and have slightly higher forward voltages. That means that using the XPE2 templages will work, it will be safe, but it won’t drive the LEDs to their full potential in some cases.
Just go ahead and use the XPE2 templates to begin with, if you want better templages, you can read this page which explains how to make them:
And if reading this page leaves you scratchin’ your noggin’, feel free to just ask again. 
Ok, i prefer to configure xml correctly so I try to create the strutture for xml led.
There Is a way to desable temporary the led protection and provide maximum voltage to the leds to configure the correct resistors.
I would also like to do the same thing for the LED on the button to measure the correct resistance.
Not sure exactly how you are going about picking the right resistors. But if you provide too much current to the LEDs you could fry them.
Personally, the way I would do it is to read the data sheet, get the “forward voltage” for each color, then calculate the resistor needed from there. If you use 4.2 volts as the input voltage, then you don’t need the proffieboard to do any “protection”, and you can use CH1LED as instead of CreeXPE2Template, or you can just use the CreeXPE2Template<10000>. ProffieOS won’t try to do any protection if it things you have a large resistor.
I would however set 3.7 as the input voltage and calculate the resistors accordingly. Then I would configure the LED structs from the data sheet, and then ProffieOS would reduce the PWM a bit if the input voltage is higher than 3.7 volts.
The software will never know how to compensate unless the resistor and LED marches the configuration. If you don’t have a resistor, you should use <0>, but none of that matters unless you have the right template.
Conversly, if your resistors are big enough, then no protection is required, and so you can use any LED template with <10000> or something to disable the protection.
I’d like to connect the LED to the proffieboard with a fully charged battery and measure voltage and current between the LED and the resistor with a multimeter. This way, I should find the correct resistance for each diode at the maximum battery voltage.
To do this, however, I need the board not to be in protection mode, otherwise the test will be erroneous.
Now it’s clear and I can move on with my tests.
But there’s one thing I still don’t understand.
The styler outputs a color made up of red, green, and blue, but I also connected the white LED to the free3 pin (as per the diagram on the website).
In the documentation, I saw that there’s a subtrct definition. Is it necessary to define it in a standard RGBW configuration?
If you want pure white, then yes, you’d setup SUBTRACT for the non-White LED profiles/definitions.
It sounds like you’ve found it already, but the information for setting it up resides here.
If you want maximum brightness (assuming also that your cooling solution can handle it), then you’d go without, but mixing RGB to white tends to create a white that is not quite as pretty as just using the dedicated white diode alone.
If I understand correctly, without subtraction, given a color coming from the style with all three components set, the poffiboard would light up all four LEDs. To light the white LED, it would use the lowest value of the three components.
So, for example, for a color R255 G100 B50, the LEDs would light up R255 G100 B50 W50, creating a color similar to that indicated by the RGB code but lighter because it is lightened by white. However, this would increase battery consumption, and especially if the pure white color R255 G255 W255 came from the style, all four LEDs would light up at maximum intensity.
If I define the subtraction of the white from the three LEDs, Red, Green, and Blue, I would get the following:
For a code of R255 G100 B50, the proffieboard would light up: R205 G100 B0 W50.
For the same reason, when faced with a code of 255,255,255 coming from the style, only the white LED would light up at the value of 255.
Did I understand correctly?
Correct.
“Brighter” would be a more accurate word. The color “Saturation” (as defined in HSL or HSV understandings) wouldn’t, theoretically (it will shift a bit, and/or hue will, because the RGB components don’t mix perfectly—perfectly being resulting in an identical wavelength saturation to the white diode, but that’s pedantic), shift.
Right.
Assuming you meant G50 on that second bit, just a typo I figure, then you’re understanding correctly.
I actually don’t know if the code does math for perceptual brightness that might move those numbers around a bit, but even if so, your core understanding is correct.
I ran the tests directly by connecting the board to the test bench. I connected a fully charged battery and adjusted the resistors on each LED until I got about 1A (about 980mA) with the multimeter.
Then I gradually increased the resistors to find the value of about 700mA, then I measured the voltages on the LEDs. I did all this while setting 100,000 as the standby value in the LED profiles and then disabling the protections.
Thi Is te values calculated:
Red: 2.62v at 700ma 2,89v at 1000ma resistor 1ohm
Green 3,26v at 700ma 3,35v at 1000ma resistore 0,51 ohom
Blu 3.22v at 700ma 3,33v at 1000ma resistor 0,55 ohm
White 3,32v at 700ma 3,45v 1000ma resistor 0,4 ohm
The values ​​don’t match those on the datasheet. The green, blue, and white LEDs draw 1A at lower voltages than indicated in the specifications. The red LED, on the other hand, draws 1A at 2.89V, while the specifications say it should draw 2.6V. At about 2.6V, it draws 700mA.
I tested two CREE RGBW XML LEDs, both connecting them to the proffieboard and directly to a voltage source, and I got the same values ​​(more or less).
What do you think the discrepancy in the red LED could mean?
Seems like you don’t need to connect any of this to a Profffieboard for the actual measurements.
Where are you measuring current? Is it including any draw from the board? (Which should be pretty small, but still…)
Assuming the measurements are correct, I would wonder if maybe your led is not XM-L? (Or maybe Cree datasheets are not very good?)
I measured voltages and currents both on the board and by connecting the LED directly to a voltage source; the values ​​are similar.
On the board, I measured by inserting the multimeter in series with the positive pole of the LEDs, turning on one LED at a time. Yes, perhaps I also measured the board’s power consumption this way, but at least it’s a real-world PWM operation, while with the voltage source I was measuring DC.
Would it have been better to measure directly on the negative pole of the LEDs? I think it’s the same…
These are CREE LEDs I bought some time ago on AliExpress, and I may have received non-original LEDs. However, they still produce excellent light.
I virtually guarantee you they’re not genuine lol.
1 Like
At this point I can only trust the values ​​I found and hope that it holds up as long as possible
Yeah. It’s good you got the measurements yourself, so you’ve got a good idea of how they respond especially since it’s not in line with what you expected.