Configuration + Wiring for KR Sabers Master QGJ w/Metal Master Chassis

[profezzorn]

@QGJPadawan

Sorry, having trouble with the applications (trying to quote)

Just highlight and press the quote button.

@QGJPadawan

‘ * This is a beginner config file, it doesn’t have edit mode, responsive styles or anything fancy. However, it would get you started’

Can you clarify what edit mode is? My understanding is that this creates an initial code configuration, then I go through Fett263 etc. to copy/paste new font codes and attach to this initial sequence. Does this sequence not allow this, or is edit mode something else?

Edit mode is a feature of the Fett263 prop which lets you change a lot of things using menues on the saber itself, no websites or config files needed.

The tool you’re talking about is Fett263s configuration generator, which I don’t know that much about, but I think you’re right that it can generate a more feature rich configuration file from a simple one. Of course Fett263s configuration generator will generally use Fett263s prop file and also enable edit mode by default.

@QGJPadawan

‘* The “NPXL accent” in your diagram needs a data line of some sort if it is truly a neopixel, but maybe it’s just a regular LED? (If so, maybe it needs a resistor?)’

Here’s the guide I have for the chassis: https://goth-3designs.com/instructions/diy-kr-master-qgj-2023-master-chassis/

I probably do need to add, but the guide only says ‘install.’ Per Step 2, ‘the pixel is wired in series with the main NPXL connector. The positive and negative wires will be soldered directly to the NPXL connector’

Based on the guide maybe you can confirm? There’s three pads on the single LED so maybe I do need to add a data line.

The guide is very brief and assumes that people knows what they are doing. Since they call it a “Pixel”, and say that it is wired in parallel with the blade, I would assume that it needs three wires: +, - and data.

@QGJPadawan

‘* In your diagram, it looks like (+) goes to both ends of the battery, that seems weird.’

This was the part that confused me the most. I would think I somehow need to connect the (+) and (-) of the battery to the board, but the design of the chassis does not have a path from the battery (+) tab to the board. Does it make sense that I would have two connectors from the battery (-) tab, one that goes to the battery (-) on the board, and one that goes to the kill switch, which goes to the battery (+) of the board?

No, that does not make sense. The wire between the kill switch and the battery would need to go to the + side of the battery.

@QGJPadawan

‘* Personally I prefer to hook everything up so that I can control each LED individually. It’s a little more work, but gives a lot more flexibility when setting up the software.’

From what I can tell, the ability to wire ‘everything’ of very limited with this chassis. It’s two separate parts, and the wires have to go through very narrow tubes to connect from the front portion to the back portion

There’s always magnet wire, but if you don’t want to fiddle with that in your first install, that’s understandable.

The Wiring Selection

If you’ve seen the “stuff in my drawers” thread, you know that I like wires, probably more than I should: However, it always seems like regardless of how many wires you have, you never quite have the right kind, size or color that you need. I’m not going to list all the different kinds of wire I have, but here are some recommendations: Standard wire Regular plastic-coated wires aren’t particularly helpful for building sabers, or anything else that requires soldering. When you solder these wires, the coating tends to shrink or melt and cause “goose-neck” soldering joints that can cause shorts. These wires are fine for crimping though. Silicone wire Silicone doesn’t melt, and it’s much more flexible than regular plastic, which makes for nice and easily workable wires. Unfortunately the silicone is not quite as resilient as the plastic, so they make the silicone coat a little thicker. This can be a big problem in a saber where space is tight. PTFE Wire PTFE also doesn’t melt, and it’s quite durable, which means that the coating can be thinner than plastic wire, especially if you can find wire that is rated for less than 600V. (The higher the voltage rating, the thicker the coating, but we don’t need 600 volts for making sabers) Most PTFE wire is also mil-standard with tin- or silver-coated strands which makes it really easy to solder. The wires tends to be somewhat stiff, so bending them into shape can be a little extra work. Generally, these are the right wires for making sabers. Uncoated wire I use this stuff when making string blades. Granted, it’s been a while since i made one of those. Magnet wire If 30 AWG ptfe wire is still too thick, consider magnet wire. Magnet wire has a super-thin coating, and come in seriously thing wires. I haven’t actually used this particular wire yet, and it can only carry enough power for buttons or single LEDs, but it’s about the thickness of human hair. That spool is actually a sewing bobbin! Ribbon cable Ribbon cable is unfortunately regular plastic cable, but it’s great for keeping your wires organized. It can be super convenient to peel of 3 or for 4 wires to use for buttons + gnd. Then there is the whole issue of connectors, but that’s a story for another time…