without a blade my Saber reads 1000720448, which is only too high of a resistance by one decimal place. and I get this error: In file included from G:\Proffie\ProffieMaster\ProffieOS\ProffieOS.ino:606:G:\ - Pastebin.com
(the value in the error is edited, as i attempted editing this, aswell as line 568, Col 24 of Prop.Base
I think you should disable NO_BLADE_ID_RANGE while checking the values.
I think your measurement is actually ~720k, but then NO_BLADE_ID_RANGE adds NO_BLADE to it (which is a billion) which gives you 1000720448.
I’m getting ~700k-720k
But as soon as I re-enable the ID Range, It happens again, at seemingly random intervals, without the saber even being touched, it shoots up to 720k+1billion, and subsequently changes blade id for a split second, or even starts looping for a few seconds before finally settling back on the no_blade array.
It seems it does infact happen very rarely with my RGBW blade in, which registers at about 690k, and then NEVER happens with my RGB blade in, which registers at about 10k
It’s supposed to shoot up to a billion. That’s what NO_BLADE_ID_RANGE does. If the result is within that range, it adds a billion, which makes it match NO_BLADE.
The reason it keeps looping is probably because the range you’re using is too narrow. Ideally you would want a range like 600k to 800k to make sure that NO_BLADE_ID_RANGE works properly. Unfortunately, it looks like that might cause problems with your RGBW blade.
I’m guessing that your RGBW blade does not have an ID resistor.
There are unfortunately no guarantee that proffieos can tell the difference between having no blade and a blade with no ID resistor in it. (Unless you use the blade detect feature.) There is also no guarantee that proffieOS can tell blades apart unless they have ID resistors, and those ID resistors have different values.
Hm, it seems that might be the issue, my blade has no resistor in it, besides the data resistor, I guess in that case, is there any tips for removing the Pcb side of my RGBW superglued blade?
I tried removing the tip of the rgb blade I bought from electrum a while ago, and it now looks like the tip of my lightsaber has been through hell (and never came off either)
And I would really like to not ruin the outside of my rgbw blade.
Or any possible way to wire a resistor to the opposite end near the tip of the blade?
If you have an isolated (-) pin on the emitter side PCB (like a BD blade detect pin) You could place the resistor across that and data center pin. This would only ground when the blade is inserted, effectively giving you the same result as the resistor on the other side of both PCBs (inside the blade, which you can’t get to.) However, it’s going to mess with any blade that’s inserted.
You can’t use the blade tip. There can’t be any pixels between the resistor and the data1 pad.
theres no BD pins, hence why I’m using ID instead.
I do have a resistor bridged for blade ID, but it still goes through bladeID loops without a blade in.
No.
Make a new blade.
Well yea I want to, been wanting to for a while, but I’d need to get the LED’s out of my old blade before I can look into a new blade, I really dont want to waste 216 Sk6812’s.
Isn’t also wasteful to break the tube and waste it and the end caps?
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I wasn’t looking to break the tube, just the seal of the superglue, considering superglue is fragile, I decided to just drop my blade flat on it’s side a few times and It started to crack the superglue, I got the strip out, and have since added resistors to all 3.
Nice.
Superglue isn’t the best for polycarbonate though. It can cause it to crack. I think you’re supposed to use a plastic welding agent instead. However, with a plastic welding agent, it is very very difficult to break it apart afterwards…
Ah okay, yea I’ve noticed on the one Dagger sized Blade that there is cracking, luckily I normally just dabbed 2 dots on opposite sides, I think that saved my main blade from cracking, As I applied a lot to the Dagger blade.
I’ll look into some plastic welding agent now that the blades are 100% done.
A lot of people just use a dab of E6000.
I think E6000 is less likely to crack the tube than superglue, and it is usually also easier to take apart if you need to fix something.
Some of my blades have no glue at all, just friction.
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