Blade not working, but sound is fine

Well, finished wiring everything. The sound works great but the blade is not turning on. I have the KR sabers eco hero (rotj Luke) saber. I setup a blade style when configuring the software.
I’m worried it’s a wiring issue. Unfortunately the hilt side neopixel PCB (the one the chassis connector hits), has been glued in to test it. I have no idea how to remove that piece. Profile board has been glued in also.
Any ideas on why blade is not turning on? Or any ideas on how to get that neopixel connector out?

To be more clear it’s the connector in the grenade section of the saber.

Time to bring out the multimeter and start measuring.

Ok, I finally got around to measuring the connectors with a multimeter. I have voltage all the way through including the wires connecting the LEDs. I still don’t have any light. I’m thinking I either got some bad LEDs (kr pixel stick) or maybe something wrong with my programming? Any ideas if I have power going to the LEDs but no light?

Do you have data?

I have data on the board itself, it measures the 1v. When I try to measure it at the first PCB it doesn’t measure anything. I wonder if the data pad is is broken on the first PCB connector.

Do you have continuity between those two points? (Test with board unpowered.)

I don’t actually know how to do that. And I think I just fried the board. My probe slipped off the ground and made contact with the positive at the same time in the board, it sparked and no more power. :grimacing:

I have an extra proffie board just in case I did this. I may need to start over. This has been more difficult than expected…

Try charging the battery first.
You may have just tripped the battery protection circuit, and some of those don’t reset until you charge the battery.

While I’m figuring out if the battery recharge will work, can you explain how to check for continuity of the data line with the power turned off? I’m having a hard time figuring out how that works. Thanks for your help.

Continuity is a mode on your multimeter. (aka “beep mode”)
You just set your multimeter to continuity check, touch the two points and if it beeps, then you have a connection between those two points. No beep - no connection.

Ok, thank you. Recharging the battery didn’t work. I’m pretty sure the board is fried. But like I said, I did buy a backup just in case since I’ve never done this before. I may attempt it again, but I may also just send it off to an installer to try to figure it out. Any recommendations on installers in the United States?