Blade detect speed

ProffieOS
1

Is there any way to adjust blade detect frequency (even better if I can change it differently depending on if there is or isn’t a blade at the time) similar to blade ID?

Or possibly make blade detect sleep when the hilt does. Cause from what I have been able to tell enabling it makes the battery drain like crazy (ok not crazy, but in days instead of like 1-2 weeks when idle).

2

I moved this to a new topic since it didn’t seem particularly relevant to where you had posted it.

I’m not entirely sure why blade detect would drain the battery so quickly though. Blade detect doesn’t really do anything magical to keep the CPU from going into low speed. Are you sure that’s what’s causing it? I can try some measurements…

3

I will see if I can do some more detailed testing. It was just anecdotal based on the behavior before and after I enabled it on my hilts. Cause I tend to just leave then in standby with blades in cause I’m lazy (I do use the kill plugs on my thrawn hunters usually, but that is mainly cause for some reason, they seem to die WAY faster than my QGJ, and I’m not honestly sure why. It just becomes more noticeable after BD. But at the same time, I also enabled it on my QGJ and while It does seem to drain faster, its not to the same extent (to the point I won’t deny I could be imagining it with that one).

I really gotta find the time to pop open most of my blades and add ID resistors someday. Is there any particular range they gotta be in anyway (I know off topic. but I figure that’s a simple question).

Also, how does the 470ohm (and 350 or w/e) work with accent pixels? Cause I notice on most of the crystal chamber chassis I get, none of them suggest a resistor, but I can’t figure out how to wire the crystal to make sure it works? Does multiple in the path cause issues? Like 3.9 has a resistor on board for 1st channel, I think at least the 10mm accent pixels have one as well, and then my pixel sticks have em too, does that cause issues? Or it just needs something to attenuate the signal cause it’s too strong?

Anyone ever done a 4pin blade connector to get data out :P.

Anyway, sorry for all the random questions, Once I finish the testing for the other issue, I will see if I can do a before/after comparison for draining speed. I’ll try and make myself do idle testing first, even though the wait will make me cry cause I only have 3 working hilts for moment RIP my DV6 CFX… and its replacement… and the original one I tried to install… definitely investing in kapok tape lol.

For blade on testing, I assume the best way to do it without annoying myself endlessly is just silent ignition and then let it chill and hope it doesn’t overheat any of the wiring lol (ive always used at least 1 22ga for + and at least 1 22/24ga for ground on the blade, but usually its 2x22 for each if I can fit it. I think the thrawn hunters I ended up with 22+ of 2x24- on the photo and just 22+ and 22- for the big one cause I did it so far apart, but the 2x24 is so much easier to get the pub to stay flat lol.

Oh I guess I should also have it hooked up to serial while I do it so I can have the voltage logs. I can’t remember off hand, does serial monitor show time stamps for events? Profile has no sort of clock right (like RTC with time of some sort).

4

The blade ID pages says 2k to 100k:

Same as everywhere else: Good.
Pretty sure that’s not what you wanted to know though…

Generally speaking no. Multiple resistors will just add up, and I wouldn’t expect you to experience any problem until the total resistance gets to about 10k.

The resistors aren’t there to attenuate the signal. They have two purposes:

  1. protection, it protects the LEDs from shorts, and it protects the Proffieboards from shorts.
  2. Leech reduction. Many neopixels will glow when you cut the power to them because they end up drawing power from the data line. ProffieOS tries to reduce this by setting the data line to floating when not in use. However, it doesn’t always work (shared power pins being one of multiple reasons for this) a resistor in the line will reduce the amount of current the LED can draw which basically remove the errant glowing.

Please try to organize your questions if possible, that way each thread can be about one specific subject which is far more helpful to other people if they read these things in the future.

A good 10A capable multimeter might be better. It would need to be inserted in the circuit which can be tricky, but then you could see exactly how much power is being drawn instantly without having to wait for the battery to drain.

Yes it does. (Arduino adds the timestamps, unless you tell it not to.)

Proffieboards do have clocks, but they start at zero every time you power on.