89Sabers OWK1 install with custom chassis

Hi! I’m doing an install on a 89Sabers OWK1. I wanted to design the chassis as well as perform the install. I will later show the process of actually installing. But for now I would like to focus on the chassis design.
The hilt is already kinda narrow (26.35mm ID), but it has an internal plate for decorative purposes on the handle. Which further narrows the diameter. Thus, the chassis has a different diameter on the upper and lower half. Is that the reason I could only decorate one side.
The chassis is design to have an internal chassis which makes it easy for installation, and then it slides into an external skin. The design might seem weird, but my printer is a Creality Halot One and I just can’t get good radial tolerances unless I print the parts upwards. And since I can only print 160mm tall, I decided to divide it into parts which also reduced the printing time.
I’m far from a master chassis, but I’ve already learned to fit everything, make space and trenches for routing cable, give easy access to the installer, and make it practical for the user.
The speaker is installed on the pommel, so I used a Shtock connector, and put there an USB-C for programming and power as well as an on/off switch. The particular hilt allows to rotate a cover that would allow access to part of the chassis, as well as plunger switches which allows for easily slide in design.

I’ve already printed a prototype and corrected printing and dimensions. But I guess I will have to print a further two prototypes. I guess I’m at a moment where I would really appreciate any piece of advice from more experienced installers.


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Ok, after struggling with the print side, this is my first beta prototype. I have to add some margin to the OLED, but the rest is fitting great. I think that for a Padawan level chassis, it is starting to look great. The ease of installation is high given the level of features, while the aesthetics are very acceptable for the level of sophistication from a padawan.

Since this prototype has done its part, I guess I should actually practice painting the logo, text and lines for a final prototype status. Regrettably, I don’t think painting the whole thing would resist the markings from friction with the hilt. I guess I should try, though.

Just removing the covertech allows for easy access to the SD card, and looking at the OLED. I think I’ve done a good enough job at this.

I still haven’t glued things, but I have excellent access to all boards and contacts. And while it might not look clear at first, on the side of OLED those are a trench on each side where I can route a lot of cables very neatly. I think I will use this as the basis for most of my future designs.

I like those switches there. They are awfully close to the NPVL PCB for my taste, but have noticed this as a general trend in saber design.

I’ve set it up so that I use a speaker connector so I can have access to the USB-C port for both charging and programming, plus the on/off switch.

But I wonder if I should try to extend the chassis inside the pommel and have everything in one piece. What do you think?

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