I highly recommend using silocone or teflon wires. Several of your wires have long “goose necks” which can very easily lead to shorts which can damage the board. I also highly recommend using magnification of some sort while soldering.
I also notice that you have nothing wired to batt+? You won’t get proper sound without battery power. Also, the batt+ pad looks black, has it been damaged?
When I look again, I see that maybe BATT+ is connected on the bottom of the board?
Yes the batt+ is on the bottom. I’m not sure if it is damaged however I haven’t changed that and it worked in the beginning. In terms of my wiring I have been fixing much of those goose necks on my components, I haven’t yet gotten around to the ones on the board. Would a short be what is causing these issues?
The vast majority of proffieboard problems are caused by shorts.
Sometimes a short doesn’t damage anything, sometimes it does, and the effects can be weird and unusual. Sometimes fixing the short fixes the problem, sometimes it doesn’t, because some component has been damaged by the short.
In your particular case I’m uncertain what’s going on. The battery measurements and the audio aren’t separate circuits, so that either means that there are more than one thing that is wrong, or one the problem is something they share. (Like the programming.). It’s also possible that the low-battery circuit is turning the saber off, preventing the sound from working properly.
The battery circuit is super simple though, it’s just two resistors that divide the voltage so that the CPU can read it…
Maybe post a picture of the bottom of the board too?
I have a couple of questions if you don’t mind.
Based on your picture, is the speaker wire making contact with the adjacent pad?
Did you use Red as a ground wire for LED2 pad?
Have you ever tried through-hole soldering?
And you get the progress bar right, not just a 1-10 count?
Yes I do indeed
