Long time lurker here. I finally got around to setting up a saber with a proffieboard 2.2 that I bought years ago. When soldering and testing part by part I got some familiar magic smoke. I pressed on and finished putting it all together and to my surprise most things still work.
The only issues i had were the sound crackling and incorrect voltage for the battery. I found a thread with a workaround for the sound by bridging batt + and the 5v pad but still had the issue with the voltage read outs being quite low compared to the actual charge of the battery. In another thread I read something about editing the battery_monitor.h.
I found this line that says “return volts * 2.0;”. I divided the voltage from the serial monitor by 2 and then changed that value to 3.2 which landed me with the correct voltage read out. Is this an ok fix or will this lead to much larger problems down the line?
First thing to do is to actually masure your 3.3v pad.
One of the things that leads to voltage readings being off is if your 3.3v is too high. If the 3.3v pad has more than 3.3v, then the board will most likely not live very long…
Phew, cool. I saw some other threads showing other components to check so I’ll check those later when I get home but I was trying to avoid replacing the board since I don’t have a hot air station to replace such small parts.
Yup, 3.3v pad reads out as 3.3v. I did notice that the board has some sort of coil whine though which worries me a little bit but so far everything is working, especially with the adjustment to battery_monitor.h
If you’re shorting BATT+ and 5v, then the voltage booster will be trying it’s best to raise the voltage to 5 volts, which won’t work, because the input and output is shorted. If the L1 coil is still working, this could create a fair bit of coil whine.
Normally when you short 5V to BATT+, it’s because the booster is already toast, so this doesn’t happen.
I assumed it the booster wasn’t working since my speakers would crackle at anything higher than 700 vol. After shorting Batt+ to 5v it fixed the audio issue. Is L1 part of the audio booster?
Is it a bad thing in the long run to have it whine like that?
Before bridging to batt+ the 5v was way low like around 2 something. The crappy audio was on battery power. It sounded very similar to audio on usb unless I put the vol around 700. After bridging it got so much clearer on louder volumes.
So, I would say that the only thing that may break because of the coil whine is the voltage booster, which is already not working, so it should be fine…