Proffieboard somethings been fried

After a ccsabers hiltside pcb touched exposed wires (it could have been anything from button1, gnd, positive or data 1) I have had no output to a new pcb or direct to neopixel blade.

I have rewired the negative to 3 different groups of mosfets. Originally 2/3, then 4/5 then 1/6, I reconfigured the board accordingly and after no progress I then attempted to switch datalines and also confirmed the config was correct with multiple smiths in discord.

the entire board seems to be working but something isn’t transmitting power, or data to the blade but I’ve tested for continuity and it all looks normal.

Instead of re-soldering, it seems like it would be better to try to figure out what is wrong.

Grab a multimeter, and measure the voltage between LED2 (or whatever FETs you are using right now) and BATT+. When the blade is on, this should read close to battery voltage. If not, you have a problem with power.

Then, set your multimeter to AC and measure between GND and your data pin. if things are working, the voltage should be near zero when the blade is off and around 1 when on. (the actual value depends on both the color and the multimeter, but it’s not important, the important thing is to see a clear change.)

Once we’ve figured out if it’s the power or the data that’s the problem, then we can try to figure out what to do next.

Also, I assume that you know what a failed upload looks like?
Issues like this can be super confusing if uploads aren’t actually working.


Alright I’m about to text I just can’t figure out how my multimeter works, I know how to switch between ac and dc but not sure which ranges to be on, it shows 200m,2000m and then 20,200,1000 For DC and then 750 and 200 for AC

THe 20v range would be reasonable for doing lightsaber measurements, but if it doesn’t have anything lower than 200v for AC, then you might need to get a different/better multimeter.

Here is a link to the one I use:

Would that mean I won’t be able to test with this one? I found an old one that has 20v AC but after swapping the battery it won’t power on. I just can’t imagine I’ll be able to get myself a new one too soon

You can certainly try it, I don’t know how good or sensitive your multimeter is, but from your description, it sounds like a very very basic one, so if you don’t see any results, it could just be the meter, and if you don’t know if the problem is the meter or not, then it’s hard to draw conclusions.

Very late resaponse, i see 0.00 on data and then 0.0, 5 with blade on, and the fets are producing battery power.

do you mean 0.05 volts?

Yes that is correct my bad, I’m not sure if there is a way to edit after submitting, as I never reread what I type haha.

There is an edit thing that you can use to fix posts, but it’s not always available, dpending on how old the post is and what your “trust level” is.

Anyways, 0.05 volts sounds low to me, but it could just be that the meter doesn’t measure 800Hz signals very well, so it’s hard to say if it means something is wrong or not.

After some testing I have found the issue to be with either the capacitor or the traces for my neopixel PCB, I have been able to have the blade light up after hooking it straight up, although the blade is lighting up only halfway and white(preset is red), I figure the white can be fixed by changing the config to rgbw instead of rgb (strips are rgbw) but what about them only lighting about halfway up? It’s a few pixels below the solder joint so It can’t be the joint itself right?

If you get RGB <-> RBGW wrong, it won’t be white, it will be a repeating pattern of colors. (Unless your preset is white, then it will still be white.)

So when the blade lights up, do you have actual control over it, like does ignition/retraction work? If not, you might have just got some random data that makes it light up a little.

I’m not sure then, I uploaded the config where I edited the pixel # to 145 and to GRBW just a few minutes ago and the blade changed from going white halfway up to full blue and all the effects show up as expected

Weird, but good I guess.
The repeated pattern can sometimes look white since R+B+G mix into white.
Maybe that’s what happened?

one, but it was a blue hump flicker with an audio flicker responsive swing, also found out the battery was ~13% at the time
I never did swing the saber around when it only lit halfway so I cant say if it still reacted normally though I can say it ignited the pixels sequentially and at the speed it should have.

Maybe the strips I have in particular have a weird behavior when exposed to just RGB values (sk6812)

And just a quick followup question Are there any recommended hiltside pcbs? This seems to be the second ccsaber pcb that has crapped itself on me and it seems to be due to the resistor losing all continuity and resistance, as the resistor doesn’t show any continuity on the meter.

Hard to go wrong with ShtokD pogo pin PCBs.

1 Like

Shtok V3 (not the ECO) is the sureshot thing. Have a dozen of those.