Proffieboard component replacement

Hi guys! Trying to fix up this scuffed proffie I worked on a couple years ago and it’s in need of a replacement Inductor. The part identifier according to Fredrik’s KiCAD file is L1, part number DFE252012P-1R0M=P2. I’ve found this component on Digi-key and mouser, but they both have exceptionally high shipping rates to the UK, so I’m replacing this part along with some others with parts supplied by LCSC, but they don’t have this specific inductor, can anyone find me a suitable replacement part that I can buy from LCSC? Thanks!

Try one of these:

No gurantees, but they should be similar enough to work I think.

This one looks most similar i think! Do you think this is a good fit? 252012CDMCDDS-1R0MC Sumida | C492725 - LCSC Electronics

Seems reasonable. I think it will work.

Is there an easy way i can run a quick diagnostic on the proffieboard when it’s fixed to check everything is back and working?

Easy is not the adjective I would use, but yes.
Otherwise, just put it through its paces as usual and see how it works?

So, there is a lot of things test if you want to test everything…
However, if you just want to know if the L1 is working:

  1. make sure you have 5v on the 5v pad when the saber is ignited.
  2. hook up a speaker and make sure the sound sounds good and loud

If both of these tests pass, then the 5v supply (and the L1) should be working well.

I’m actually fixing various boards, 3 total. Between them, the replaced components will be: L1, L2, SW1, SW2, C11, C31, USB1. Maybe even Q7 on this board, but if that’s the case then I’m sceptical because of how complex the component is. Do you think this would need replacing? it looks like just chipped plastic. Let me know what you think, and how I’d test for each of these components? (by the way, Q7 is another one I can’t find on LCSC, any other recommendations there)

Hi Fredrik, I’ve just finished replacing the components on my proffies, including C11, C31, L2, L1 & USB1, is there any way I can run a diagnostic to check if these boards are functional now?

As NoSloppy said; You need a test rig to test the board. It or something like it is really the only way to test things without soldering wires to it:

I’m happy to solder to the fixed boards, what would i need to solder to the board to test the components i specified?

I higly recommend a test rig, but, regardless of how you do it, you’re going to need to test these things:

  1. before you plug in power, you want to make sure there isn’t a short between the power and GND, this means:
    1a. measure the resistance between VUSB and GND. (VUSB can be found on one side of D62, or by cutting an USB cable in half and plugging it in to the proffieboard.) If the resistance is really low, like less than half an ohm, then DO NOT PLUG IT IN.
    1b. Same thing for BATT+ → GND
  2. Plug in USB, make sure that 3.3v is working. Make sure computer can see the board. Try programming the board. If all of this works, then USB1, 3.3v regulator and L2 is fine.
  3. Plug in power thorugh BATT+, make sure that 3.3v is working, make sure that SD_VDD has 3.3v. If so, Q7 should be fine.
  4. Hook up a speaker. Try the “beep” command in the serial monitor. Also try playing some sounds from the SD card. If it works well, C11, C31 and L1 should be fine. Also check that you have 5v on the 5v pad for good measure.
  5. If you haven’t already, try the BOOT+RESET thing to get into bootloader mode. Make sure the board shows up as “STM32 BOOTLOADER”. If it doesn’t work, but you don’t know which button is not working, it’s probably the RESET button. If the board reboots, but doesn’t go into bootloader mode, then it’s the BOOT button.

Note that Q7 does two things: It turns power to the SD card on and off, and it is also the reverse-polarity protection for the whole board. If it is broken, it could either mean that the board only works on USB power, or it could mean that the SD card doesn’t work, or both.