Power cycle kill switch twice to boot

Hi all , I’m installing a Warsabers Starkiller V4 and I’m running into an issue , If the board is powered down for any significant amount of time I need to cycle the kill switch twice to get the board to boot. 2 Important things 1: This saber comes with some very cool and unique pcbs
2: I installed a cap on the proffie to help with the oled and BT

Well, what size cap? My gut response, outside of proffieboards in general, would be high inrush current tripping the protection PCB on the battery, though I wouldn’t necessarily expect that from the size of capacitors usually installed…

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the cap is the recommended size but I figured the cap was involved I will try an unprotected cell


Like what?

If this is the case, it’s fairly easy to test: Just check if you have voltage or not.

Please beware that this is NOT recommended. It is entirely possible to set fire to your house using unprotected batteries. Try at your own risk.

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The WS Starkiller V4 kit includes a switchbox pcb with accent LEDs and a USB-C port, and a separate TP4056 charge pcb coupled to a third pcb. The idea is you can charge the battery through the switchbox pcb port, and also access the data connection on the Proffie via the same port if you use the optional adapters that come with the kit.

I’ve built a couple of them and they are quite nicely designed, with bespoke ribbon cables supplied in the kit to hook everything up.

I guess the only caveats are that more pcbs and more complex wiring gives more opportunity for wiring faults. Also the switchbox pcb includes 4 LEDs - two can be controlled as normal accents and two are hard-wired to the ribbon connections to show the presence of power. The issue with the latter is you can’t control them or switch them off unless you open the hilt up and use the kill key, which completely defeats the purpose of having external USB charge and data connectivity. On the ones I installed I unsoldered those LEDs and just used the controllable ones.

In this instance it’s possible the problem could be caused by some part of the two internal pcbs touching each other or the inside of the hilt. It’s quite a tight fit and those pcbs don’t have a mounting - they just float on their wiring in the void inside the hilt mid-sction. So if the installer didn’t properly think through how those pcbs would sit alongside each other and make adequate provision for insulating both, I’m guessing a short could help create the symptoms observed.

This diagram shows the setup. As you can see, there is plenty of scope to get things wrong.

The first thing to find out if definitely if power is being delivered to the board or not when it’s not working as it’s supposed to.

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